All tools, whether hand or power, should be regularly maintained. This can range from an occasional wipe over with a clean oily rag for metal parts, or linseed oil for wooden parts, to a total overhaul. You should not attempt the latter unless you have the required specialist knowledge to attempt the task. This is especially important in the case of power tools.
All electrical equipment should be checked regularly and tested by a competent electrician. The frequency of this testing will vary with the item, but for very regularly used items, such as drills and extension cables, a test should be made at least annually, together with a visual check every time they are used. For less regularly used items a test no less than every five years will suffice, but a visual check should be made every time they are used. A visual check should include looking for worn or loose wires, signs of overheating, and damage to the working parts of the equipment.
The section below gives some notes on tools normally only used in the workshop. For details on maintenance and repair of fieldwork tools, see Chapter 5 – Replacing hafts and handles and Chapter 6 – Sharpening.
Saws
After every use, saws should be lightly oiled to prevent rust on the blade. Vegetable oil is cheap and biodegradable.
Rip and panel saws should be sharpened, and reset if necessary, using saw sets and sharpening files. The files are supplied in jigs, and should be used according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If your workshop does not include these tools, then rip and panel saws should be taken to a good saw doctor or hardware store for sharpening and setting.
The sharpening of tenon and dovetail saws should not be attempted in the workshop as great precision is needed. Take these to a saw doctor.
Hacksaws
Hacksaws are available in three types: tubular, solid framed and junior. All types have non-resharpenable blades. Purchase high-speed flexible blades, not stiff blades which although cheaper, go blunt quickly and can shatter. A coarse blade, with 24 teeth to the inch, is suitable for general use. When fitting a new blade, take care to fit it the correct way round, with the teeth pointing forwards.
For tubular or solid framed hacksaws the wing nut is slackened, the old blade removed and a new one fitted. Do not overtighten the wing nut or the blade will easily snap. To tension the blade, take up the slack, and then apply two full turns only. There should be a washer fitted between the wing nut and the saw frame. The junior saw has a fine blade, with 36 teeth to the inch. To replace, compress the frame to release the old blade and then fit the new one.
Drills
Hand drills should have the pinions regularly greased with a standard grease. They should not be oiled, as this will attract grit when the tool is in use and shorten its working life.
Power drills should be maintained in accordance with the manufacturer ’s instructions.
Drill bits can be sharpened in a bit sharpener, available from DIY stores.
Screwdrivers
The screwdriver is a much abused tool. Always use one that matches the screw being driven for both size and shape of tip. If they are not matched, the result will be a screw so badly worn that it is almost impossible to remove, or a screwdriver with a badly damaged tip. The tip can be reground as for a chisel, but both sides of the blade are ground to an angle, usually 15-20 degrees, and the tip is ground flat and square.
Files
Files must be sharp to be safe, and of any use. They have a limited life span and although fairly expensive, must be replaced when blunt. A sharp file bites into the metal, feeling as though it is dragging a little over the surface. A blunt file skids across the surface without biting, and could result in injury to the hand when sharpening edged tools. Files get tiny particles of metal embedded between the teeth, a process known as pinning. This can be avoided by rubbing white chalk on the file teeth. Files can be cleaned with a wire brush. File-cleaning scratch pads are available, but excessive use of these will dull files. For stubborn dirt, use a flat piece of hardwood, about the same section as the file, with one end cut to a chisel edge. Push this across the teeth, maintaining firm pressure, and dirt will be lifted.
Files must always be used with a properly fitted handle, or there is a risk of the tang causing injury to the wrist and forearm. A file cuts on the forward stroke only, and should be lifted off on the return stroke. Rubbing it back and forth will quickly cause it to become blunt.
