For all projects
First aid kit. Have one available at all times. Pinched or crushed fingers are likely to be the most common problem, along with cuts and thorns if clearance work is being done. TCV can supply standard first aid kits which comply with the 1981 Health and Safety Regulations (First Aid). For up to ten people, the minimum contents are:
A first aid kit suitable for use in a workplace for up to 10 people
| Guidance card | 1 |
| Waterproof plasters | 20 |
| Sterile eye pads, with attachment | 2 |
| Individually wrapped triangular bandages | 4 |
| Safety pins | 6 |
| Medium sterile dressings (12cm x 12cm) | 6 |
| Large sterile dressings (18cm x 18cm) | 2 |
| Alcohol free cleansing wipes | 6 |
| Scissors | 1 |
| Pairs of fine transparent disposable plastic gloves | 2 |
| NOTE: Where mains tap water is not readily available for eye irrigation, sterile water or sterile normal saline (0.9%) in sealed disposable containers should be provided. Each container should hold at least 300ml and should not be reused once the sterile seal is broken. At least 900ml should be provided. Eye baths or other refillable containers should not be used for eye irrigation. | |
| NOTE: The first aid kit must be kept in a suitably marked container which will protect the contents from dust and damp. | |
From experience on projects, the following ‘welfare kit’ is also found to be useful:
Welfare kit suitable for use in additional to a first aid kit
| Pair of tweezers |
| Safety pins |
| Needle and thread |
| Pencil |
| Sanitary towels |
| Whistle |
| Toilet roll |
| Cotton wool |
| 30 plasters |
| 3 finger pouches |
| Rubber gloves |
| Insect repellent |
| 2 x 10p pieces |
| Sun cream |
| Barrier cream |
A list of local hospitals with casualty departments should also be to hand.
Groups buying tools will find the best selection in the ranges of agricultural and contractors’ tools. Metal Y/D handles with wood grips on forks and spades are recommended for durability.
Tools are listed under different types of work, but many tasks will require a selection from each list.
Clearance
- Slasher. For use on rank vegetation such as brambles, nettles and light scrub.

- Grass hook. These are obtainable with a cranked handle to keep the user ’s hand clear of the ground, but can then only be used as designed for either right or left hand. Flat hooks can be used in either hand, or for ‘back- handed’ use. A crooked stick helps to position the vegetation for cutting.

- Scythe. These are obtainable with either a long blade (600mm) for grass cutting, or a short blade for brambles. Either aluminium or ash shafts or ‘snaiths’ are available.
- Scythette. This is a lightweight scythe with a short (300mm) blade and straight shaft.
- Secateurs. These have either a scissor or anvil action, and can cut up to about 10mm diameter live wood, or 6mm dead wood.
- Loppers can cut branches up to 30mm diameter, but may bend out of alignment if used beyond their capacity. If you cannot cut through in one cut, with little effort, stop and use a pruning saw, bowsaw or billhook.
- Bowsaw. The triangular saw is useful on small branches or where space is confined. The D shaped handle gives greater clearance for the blade, and is needed for cutting large timbers.
- Pruning Saw. This is used on close branched trees where a bowsaw will not fit. Handles can be attached to give extra reach. Folding saws which fit in a rucksack are useful.

- Axe. Useful for clearing fallen trees and preparing local timber for use in steps or revetments. Use a heavy (2025gm) axe for felling and a light (1140gm) axe for snedding or trimming. Axes require practice and skill to be used effectively.
- Wedges and sledgehammer.
- Mattock. Grub ended for cutting through roots.
- Single-edged billhook. For light scrub clearance, snedding and brashing.
- Sharpening stones.
- Fire-making kit. Kindling, newspapers, matches, pitchforks.
Drainage and surfacing
- Heavy garden spade, treaded.
- Trenching or dyking spade with triangular, slightly bevelled blade. A versatile tool, as it can be used for both digging and shovelling.
- Heavy digging fork, with YD handle.
- Square or taper-mouth shovel.
- Steel garden rake or tar rake.
- Pickaxe.
- Pick ended mattock for general use, and grubbing mattock for roots.
- Sledgehammer.
- Crowbars, length 1200mm or 1500mm.
- Punner or tamper, for tamping down surfacing. Round or square heads available.
- Heavy duty builder ’s wheelbarrow, with pneumatic tyre.
- Buckets. Heavy duty rubber or canvas, but not plastic or metal which break easily.
Old buckets with holes are useful for collecting stream material for surfacing. Gravel hods can be improvised out of old bread baskets or similar, with handles pushed through for two people to carry. Line as necessary with old plastic sacks to contain the gravel. - Screens, for grading surfacing material.
- Drainage rods and head attachments for clearing blocked drains and culverts.
Construction work
This includes the construction of stiles, steps, bridges and boardwalks.
- Carpentry tools. Panel saw, claw hammer, lump hammer, adjustable spanner, spirit level, screwdrivers, brace and bits, chisels, Surform, wrecking bar, steel tape, mallet, junior hacksaw, wire cutters, pencils.
- Square ended shovel for mixing concrete or mortar.
- Mixing board and bucket. A sheet of old lino makes a useful portable mixing board for inaccessible sites. Alternatively, concrete can be mixed by adding water to the dry materials in a plastic sack and rolling it over and over.
- Draining spade. Narrow bladed spade for hole-digging. Various types available.

- Shuv-holer, for the removal of debris from large post holes. A shortened trowel is useful for removing debris from small holes.
- Post hole borer.
- Scoops, of cut-down plastic squash bottles, for scooping water from post holes in wet conditions.

- Mell, maul or Drive-all for driving in wooden posts.
- Stob holder, for holding stakes and stobs to prevent them twisting whilst being driven into the ground.

- Sledgehammer, for driving in metal posts.
- Fencing tools. Bolt croppers, fencing pliers, wire strainer.
- Punner or tamper, for ramming fill around posts. Either round or square headed types are available. Another useful tool is a crowbar tamper, which is a 1200mm length crowbar, with a 50mm diameter tamper head.
- Cold chisel and bolster.
- Winch. The Tirfor T508 has a 800kg safe working load, used with a 20m x 8mm wire cable. Used for moving boulders for step construction and pitching, and for moving bridge beams. The winch and cable should be checked regularly and maintained in accordance with the manufacturer ’s instructions.
- Walling or brick hammer, useful for building stone revetments.

- Fertiliser bags, slit open, for keeping backfill tidy while hole digging.
Miscellaneous
- Safety helmets (BS 5240). For any task involving tree felling, lopping, transport of material by helicopter or aerial ropeway, or construction work in gorges. Helmets should be discarded if showing obvious signs of damage or if known to have received a heavy impact. Mark helmets with date of purchase, and replace after two years, regardless of condition.
- Goggles, to be worn when splitting or drilling rock, or using a brush cutter.
- Waymarking tools.
- Jerrican carriers. By cutting away the corners, these can be adapted to carry small tools and materials.

A mobile kit
Although it is generally considered permissible to carry light clearance tools, such as secateurs, to cut back surplus growth encountered whilst walking a right of way, anything beyond this must be done with the prior agreement of the landowner. The list below is a selection of tools and materials that fit in a rucksack, and which are useful for an individual or small group who have permission to maintain a length of path.
- Secateurs.
- Grass hook.
- Folding saw.
- Gauntlet gloves.
- Baler twine, wire, hammer, nails.
- Rag or stiff brush for cleaning waymarks.

