Painted or fastened?
Many different methods have been used for printing an arrow on plastic, metal or small pieces of wood, and then attaching these to various objects along the path. The arrows are often printed on a circular base, so they can be placed at the angle as required. These have the advantage of being uniform and quick to put up. They are particularly suitable for use by people employed in path management, as waymarks can then easily be put up as necessary, while other work is being done, without the rather fiddly business of coping with paint and brushes. However, it has been found that the metal waymarks, although resistant to weather, offer least resistance to souvenir hunters. Plastic signs are now generally preferred.
Painted arrows have the advantage of versatility, and they can be used at junctions or other points where the standard arrow is ambiguous (see below).
Most highway authorities will supply waymarking signs and paint in the correct colour. Waymarking signs are also available from the Country Landowners’ Association. Stencils for painted arrows are available from the Ramblers’ Association.
Colour and shape
The correct colours for waymarking rights of way are as follows:
Footpaths:
Yellow BS 08 E 51 Munsell 3.75Y 8.5/12
Bridleways:
Blue BS 20 E 51 Munsell 5P P7/8
Byways open to all traffic:
Red BS 06 E 55 (approx.) Munsell 10 R 5/14
The Countryside Commission arrow is quite distinctive and is unlikely to be confused with another sort of mark or arrow. It is also a neat shape, easy to fit onto narrow stile posts and small signs, and fairly easy for even a not too steady hand to paint.
The arrow was designed to appear from a distance as a blob which caught the eye, with the direction becoming apparent as the walker approached the mark.
Use
The arrows are nearly always used in the same way as traffic signs, so that a vertical arrow means straight ahead, and a horizontal arrow indicates a change of direction through 90 degrees. However, a horizontal arrow may sometimes be used as a ‘confirmatory’ arrow, meaning continue in the same direction, when there is no suitable surface on which to paint a vertical arrow (see example below).
To test the correctness of the angle, imagine the arrow tilted into the horizontal plane. Occasionally arrows are painted on a horizontal surface, but are not then visible from a distance, and weather more quickly.
A criticism of the waymark arrow is that it is inflexible, and cannot be used to indicate where a path curves around the end of a fence or wall. The shaft of the arrow can be extended in order that a clearer picture of the route can be made. In the two situations illustrated below, examples (a) show how the standard arrows can mislead, and examples (b) show the suggested use of the curved arrow.
Junctions
Junctions can also present problems. If separate arrows are painted or attached to a post, the result is very cluttered and confusing, and if the post is turned or broken, the possible permutations become something of a problem.
Some highway authorities use finger posts at all path junctions. These are rather costly and prone to vandalism, but are attractive and easy to follow. Other ideas for junctions are given here.
Painted arrows
Various materials have been used to make stencils of the basic waymark arrow. The Ramblers’ Association sell a plastic waymarking stencil, which although not very durable, can be used as a template from which other stencils can be cut. The material must be flexible and easy to clean, but not too thick. Old type vinyl flooring is suitable. Beware of getting paint under the stencil, and spoiling the edge of the arrow. Wipe the back of the stencil between each use.
Some people find it easier to use the stencil to mark in the arrow with a pencil or other pointed object, and then to paint the arrow freehand.
Brushes
The choice depends on personal preference and skill, but a fairly stiff brush of about 6mm is suitable. Avery fine brush is also needed for the arrow corners.
Aerosols do not give a sufficiently crisp edge to the arrow, although they can be used to give a contrasting background if the arrow does not show up clearly, or if one wishes to obliterate an old waymark, and paint a fresh one on top. Brown should be suitable, although white is useful as a background to blue arrows in woodland.
The waymarking kit
- Non-toxic oil-based undercoat and gloss topcoat, decanted into screwtop jars or small tins. Small container of white spirit.
- Stencil.
- Brushes, at least one for each colour. Keep them in small containers of white spirit to stop them drying out between stops.
- Rag, for wiping brush clean and correcting mistakes.
- Wire brush and ‘Surform’ for cleaning surface of object on which arrow is to be painted.
- Secateurs or other clearing tools, to cut back any overhanging growth which obscures the waymark.
- Pencil. It is very important to stand back at least ten paces to judge the angle of the waymark. This is easiest done with two people, one holding the stencil, and the other lining it up from a distance. People working on their own can use a cut- out arrow temporarily attached with a pin or Blu-tack. It is very easy to get the angle wrong if this check is not made.
The sequence of working will depend on the layout of the paths, the amount of work to be done, and the weather conditions. Each arrow should have two coats of paint. In good drying conditions it may be possible to do both coats on the outward trip, which saves time. As waymarking is necessary from either direction, it should be possible to paint the undercoat of one arrow, then the undercoat of the arrow for the opposite direction. The first arrow will then have dried sufficiently for the topcoat to be applied. In damp weather it will be necessary to work from one end of the path doing the undercoat, and then retrace one’s steps to do the topcoat.
Objects
Stiles, gate posts, fences and walls are the most suitable objects on which to place waymarks. Trees can be used if the bark is smooth. The surface should be vertical, smooth, and as permanent as possible. Try and put the waymarks at a uniform height and to the same pattern, for example always on the upper part of a fence post above the top strand of wire.
Signposts
Many finger-posts and stone or concrete signs now incorporate the yellow, blue or red arrow. However, the waymark should only be included if the path itself is waymarked throughout. A second waymark within sight of the signpost helps verify the system, and acts as a substitute if the signpost is vandalised.
Gate posts and stile posts
These are usually the most suitable locations. Put the waymark on the latching gatepost so that it is not obscured if the gate is open. Do not paint the waymark on the gate itself, as its position may move! The upper part of the stile post or the handhold is the obvious position on a stile. It is not usually recommended to paint the waymark on the step of the stile, as the horizontal surface is more quickly weathered or obscured by dirt. It does have the advantage though that awkwardly angled paths can be clearly directed.
Walls
Surfaces need to be thoroughly wire brushed to give good adhesion. The BS yellow is close to the colour of the yellow encrusting lichens, so try and choose a lichen-free part of the wall.
Trees
Beech, ash, sycamore and other smooth-barked trees are suitable if wire brushed and lightly Surformed. Birch and other trees with textured or rough bark are not suitable. Cut back overhanging growth so the waymark is clearly visible in all seasons.
Telegraph and electricity supply poles
Permission to use these must be sought from the relevant authorities. Some may give ‘blanket permission’ for their area, others may refuse or only allow for specific locations. As new poles are heavily creosoted, paint does not adhere well until the poles have aged and dried out a little.
Deterrent notices
It is useful to try and place a waymark within view of a deterrent notice such as ‘Private Drive’.
Avoid in particular:
- Unstable objects such as rotten posts, dead branches or loose stones.
- Poorly lit positions such as the trunks of very leafy trees.
- Objects that are low down, and will be obscured by summer growth.
- Surfaces which attract growth of moss or algae, and the natural run-off channels where water runs down tree trunks.
- Gates, which may be left open, thus hiding or altering the direction of the arrow.
