Preparation for planting

Size of trees to plant

Always buy small, young trees. These establish much more quickly than bigger, older trees of the same species, which they will soon catch up and overtake in size. The reason is that good quality young plants have a mass of fibrous roots but only a short, sturdy stem. They establish quickly without any check to growth. larger bare-root trees have a much poorer root:shoot ratio, with a small root system for the amount of top growth. The root system often gets damaged during lifting, transport or planting, with few of the vital fibrous roots and root hairs remaining intact. large trees therefore establish much more slowly, often putting on little or no growth for several years after planting, by which time younger plants will have caught up. Bigger, older plants require longer care in the nursery, so they are also more expensive to buy, or require longer voluntary hours of care in a tree nursery. Large trees are more difficult to transport to the planting site, and take longer to plant. Because of the effort involved in digging large holes, they are more likely to be planted badly.

Bigger trees, such as ‘standard’ trees, also need staking at planting time to stop them being blown over by the wind. If tall stakes are used, these stop the natural movement of the tree in the wind, which stimulates it to thicken at the base of the trunk, and to grow roots that buttress against the wind. When the stake is eventually removed, the tree may be unstable. Stakes and ties are expensive, and need annual checking. When people think that planting a standard tree is a short-cut to growing a mature tree or an ‘instant’ woodland, they must be persuaded otherwise! Even for planting specimen trees, or for a ‘ceremonial’ planting, it’s much better to plant small, even if it does look rather insignificant on the planting day. For single or specimen trees, it’s better to spend less on the tree, and more on the tree surround or other protection.

Small transplants are usually less prone to vandalism than older trees, because they are less noticeable, and less inviting as a target. If small transplants do get damaged, they can be cut back to ground level to sprout again, with only the loss of a year ’s growth.

About the only exception to this rule is when planting fruit trees or some ornamental trees, which may only be available as standards.

Seedlings, undercuts and transplants are young trees which are up to 1.2m tall and up to three or four years old, as listed below. Note the following:

• ‘Seedlings’ are plants which until lifting, were not moved from the place where they were sown.
• ‘Undercuts’ have not been moved, but have been undercut by a spade or special implement to encourage bushy roots. For example, 1 u 1 describes a plant which has been grown from seed for a year, then undercut, and then grown for another year.
• ‘Transplants’ have been transplanted in the nursery, to encourage good root development. For example, 1 + 2 describes a plant which has been grown from seed for a year, transplanted, and then grown on for two years.
• Cell-grown plants are seedlings grown in small containers of compost, called cells, of which ‘Rootrainers’ are the best known product. They are planted out with the rootball or ‘plug’ intact. Various sizes of cell are available to suit different species. Plants may be despatched still in their cells, or removed and with the plugs wrapped in clingfilm or similar. They may be referred to as, for example, C1 (cell-grown for one year) or P1 (one year old plug).

For most conservation planting, choose from the range of nursery stock sizes given in Table 6a below. Note the following:

• For most woodland creation and restocking projects, young transplants (1 + 1) are the best choice, as they are cheap and establish quickly. For any given species, the price of plants relates to the number of years spent in the nursery.
• For quick establishment after planting, bare-root stock should have a fibrous, bushy root system, and a sturdy stem. Although height is used to grade bare-root plants, the thickness of the root collar is a better guide. For example, a 30cm tall transplant should have a root collar diameter of at least 5mm. a transplant (eg 1 +1), which is the same height as a seedling (1 + 0) of the same species, should have a thicker root collar, a better root system and will normally establish more successfully.
• Rootrainers are more expensive than similar size bare-root seedlings, but have various advantages.

Nursery stock older than about three years are categorised as given above. These tend to be high value ornamental and introduced species, for planting in parks and gardens. They are much more expensive than seedlings, undercuts and transplants, and are much slower to establish. They may be available bare-root, root-balled, container-grown or containerised. Root-balled stock is grown in the open ground, lifted and wrapped for planting. Containerised plants have been grown in open ground and then put into containers.

Table 6a: Nursery stock sizes for forestry, conservation and amenity planting

Table 6b: Nursery stock sizes for ornamental planting

Soil preparation

In general it is much better to work with the existing soil conditions by choice of tree species and planting design, rather than by trying to change the soil conditions. Tree species that naturally suit the site will establish easily and grow quickly. The best guide to species that suit the soil is to look at what‘s growing nearby. On highly disturbed soils or industrial sites, test pits may need to be dug at various points over the planting site at an early stage in planning the project, in order to assess the soil type.

Even for a commercial woodland, 20% of open, unplanted area within the wood is considered acceptable, so it is not a good idea to plant every part of the planned woodland area. Waterlogged or seasonally wet ground is likely to anyway be a valuable habitat as it is, and may be best left unplanted.

Trees can grow in most parts of Britain below about 600m (2,000ft), and they do not need fertile topsoil to grow. As shown by a glance at any abandoned railway siding, birch, willow and other pioneer species will establish in apparently poor conditions. The roots of seedling trees are strong growing, and can make their way down through dry stones to find water and nutrients. However, sufficient depth of soil is necessary for secure root anchorage (see below).

Fertile ground is more difficult than poor ground for tree establishment, because weeds compete much more strongly. Trees will ultimately reach a greater size on fertile, well-watered land, but in the early years will require more management than on poorer soils.

Clay soils

Clay soils can be a problem. They do not drain well, and become waterlogged in winter. This makes planting difficult, and the lack of air within the soil can kill the plant roots. Planting in individual pits and back-filling with compost is not a good idea, as the pit will fill with water. Planting on mounds or ridges does not alleviate the problem, as this merely worsens problems in summer.

In summer clay soils can dry out and even crack, so young trees suffer from drought. Planting notches may open up, exposing tree roots to the air. Pit planting but backfilling with the same soil may be the best method, finished with a generous mulch of compost spread around the tree to reduce drying of the soil surface.

On large sites, clay soils can be improved by deep cultivation using agricultural machinery, as detailed below for compacted soils. On small sites, you will need to rely on careful choice of species, together with mulching and weed control so that lack of water in summer is not a problem. Avoid planting in the wettest areas.

Drying of clay soils can vary over a site according to the vegetation cover. Weed free strips or areas of ground kept clear by herbicide, to benefit tree growth, tend to crack worse than adjacent grass-covered ground.

Compacted soil

This is soil which has been spoiled by heavy machinery or other use. Heavy use squashes and damages the soil, spoiling its structure. The movement of water and air through the soil is impeded, and roots and other organisms find it difficult to penetrate the ground. The soil becomes waterlogged in winter, rock hard in summer, and ‘lifeless’. A normal healthy soil contains a large proportion of air space, with easy movement of organisms, minerals and water within the soil, making a good environment for tree roots to grow.

Persistent use of heavy machinery, for example on industrial land, can cause soil compaction quite deep down into the soil. Car-parking, sports or even a single use by crowds of people in wet conditions can compact the surface layer. Repeated ploughing to the same depth can create a compacted layer , called a plough pan, on arable land. Soil that has been moved by machinery, especially if moved in wet conditions, is often compacted. Sometimes compaction is done deliberately, for example on embankments, to reduce the movement of water through the soil, thereby increasing stability.

Deeply compacted soils can be loosened by ‘ripping’. This requires a crawler-tractor with deep tines, or heavy-duty agricultural subsoilers that rip the soil down to a depth of 50cm (1.5’) or more, shattering the hardened ground. This operation must be done in dry weather, or it will simply cause further damage. Where ripping is necessary, it must be done in the summer before planting.

Surface compaction can be alleviated by normal ploughing, which needs to be done in dry conditions. Plough pans can be broken up with an agricultural subsoiler.

Thin soils

Although trees can establish on stony soils, as they get bigger they need a sufficient rooting depth to give secure anchorage. Mature trees of most species need at least a 1m (3’) depth of soil or rootable soil material to give secure anchorage. In natural conditions, shallow or stony soils are usually in exposed or upland situations, where the wind, altitude and other factors stunt the tree’s growth, so that root anchorage is sufficient for the size of tree. A tree grown in very shallow soil in a sheltered, lowland situation may grow to a reasonable size, but then be wind-blown due to lack of rooting depth. On thin soils, choose pioneer species and ‘scrub’ species such as birch, sallow, blackthorn and others which are either fairly short-lived or of low ultimate height. Alders and poplars may also be suitable. leguminous  species such as gorse and broom, or the introduced laburnum, robinia or other species may be a way of establishing woody cover on very poor soils.

Contaminated land

Some soils will not support tree growth due to various forms of contamination from industrial activity. This can include extremes of pH, the presence of toxic materials, excess rubble and stone or contamination from organic materials. There may be physical barriers to rooting, such as concrete below the soil surface. Soils which are bare of vegetation are very likely to be a problem. Get advice from the Forestry commission before planning planting on disused industrial land. Advice should be sought from the Environment Agency before any work is undertaken on land that may be contaminated. The Agency keep a register of contaminated land, as advised by local authorities.

Some old industrial sites support an interesting ground flora and associated fauna that has developed due to the limitations of the site, which prevent its progression through to woodland. Your site assessment should highlight any such areas, which should be left as they are. limited tree or hedge planting could be carried out for screening purposes, in any pockets of suitable soil.

Soil ameliorants

When planting bare-root stock, it is not normally advisable to backfill the planting pit with organic material such as garden compost or peat. As well as the extra expense, there may be adverse effects, as listed below.

• In clay soils, the organic matter increases the amount of water retention in a pit which may already be prone to waterlogging, leading to anaerobic conditions which kill plant roots.
• The interface where the backfill and the surrounding soil meet can open up in dry weather, damaging the roots.
• Micro-organisms acting on peat absorb nitrogen, which may lead to soil in the planting pit becoming nitrogen deficient.

However, there may be benefit in adding organic matter from an existing woodland floor, which can contain mycorrhiza to aid tree establishment and growth (see below). A gritty material, for example half coarse grit and half compost, mixed into the backfill at planting may improve root growth in heavy clay soils.

Water-storing granules can be added at planting. They can absorb hundreds of times their own weight in water, which is then available to the plant as needed through dry periods. The granules also help nutrient availability and aerate heavy or compacted soils. Granules are worth using in poor soils, where they will help reduce plant losses in the first year or two after planting. Normal weed control measures must also be used, or the benefit of the granules will be lost.

Inorganic fertilisers should not normally be added when planting bare-root stock. The fine roots which are able to absorb fertiliser are mainly lost during transplanting, and regenerate during the first growing season after planting. By the time they have regrown, inorganic fertilisers will either have leached away, or worse, have been absorbed by weed growth, causing further stress to the young tree. Even if fertilisers do promote shoot growth in the first growing season, this is not an advantage, as it worsens the imbalance in the root:shoot ratio which has already been caused by transplanting.

Mycorrhiza

Mycorrhiza result from the symbiosis between certain soil fungi and the roots of plants, including those of trees, shrubs, grasses and herbaceous perennials. The fungus receives sugar and plant hormones from the plant, and the plant is supplied with water and dissolved nutrients from the fungus. The plants and the fungi become inseparably linked, with each becoming totally dependent on the other. Mycorrhiza are very common and vital to woodlands and other ecosystems, with many different types that each have a specific role to play.

For many plants the nutrient and water uptake is mainly by way of the mycorrhiza, and not directly through the roots. It’s estimated that the fungal network extends the volume of soils that plant roots can exploit for water and soil nutrients by a factor of 12 to 15. The mycorrhizal threads are more efficient than plant roots at nutrient uptake, being finer and more active. Mycorrhizal associations also promote root branching, so helping to form a better root system.

Mycorrhiza are probably the main reason for the marked difference in growth between naturally occurring seedling trees, and transplanted trees. Natural seedlings usually occur in ground which already supports the appropriate type of mycorrhizal growth, so the symbiotic relationship is established early on and the young trees grow well. Cultivated soils, reclaimed industrial land and other disturbed and non-wooded sites have little or no mycorrhizal activity.

The significance of mycorrhiza in establishing trees and shrubs on difficult sites has only recently been realised.

Mycorrhizal activity can be encouraged by the following techniques. It’s interesting to note how understanding of mycorrhizal activity gives a scientific base to the natural ‘organic’ methods of cultivation that many people have developed in the past through instinct or experience. Permaculture also follows similar principles.

• Minimise soil cultivation and disturbance to avoid damaging the mycelial network.
• Avoid creating bare ground, as it will become colonised by ruderal or weed species that are typically non-mycorrhizal.
• Where sites are being disturbed, save any topsoil and store it carefully. If it’s to be left for some time, sow it with native grasses and herbs which may encourage mycorrhizal growth.
• Avoid single-species planting, as this will limit the range of mycorrhiza which develop.
• If fertiliser has to be used on nutrient poor sites, only use slow-release fertiliser.
• Incorporate leaf litter and natural composts (see below).
• Avoid water run-off as this can wash away mycorrhizal spores.
• Control weeds. As well as the other disadvantages to tree growth, it’s thought that some weed species may inhibit the development of mycorrhiza.

Mycorrhizal activity can be encouraged by inoculation with a commercial product, which can be introduced to plants in the nursery, or applied at planting. Various products are available, including root dips, powders and liquids. MycorTree Root Dip (Plant Health Care), for example, is used on bare-root stock before potting on or planting out. The dip contains live spores of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi, hydrogel to enhance drought tolerance, and various biocatalysts. The product is mixed with water in a bucket, into which the tree roots are dipped so that they are coated with gel. Plant or pot on immediately after dipping. The Myco Force range of products (Symbio) include dips, powders, tablets and other products for nursery stock and for use at planting.

The ground around existing trees which are under stress can also be inoculated. This has recently been done to many mature trees at Kew gardens, resulting in improvements in canopy cover from 45% up to 95% in less than a year (Horticulture Week, 4 March,1999).

For do-it-yourself techniques, the best way is to introduce some organic material from existing woods. You must get permission from the landowner before you remove any material. Select a site underneath the canopy of the species of tree which you are planting. Rake away the top 25mm (1”) layer of leaf litter from an area of about two square metres (2 sq yards), and then carefully scrape away the top centimetre (half inch) or so of organic material, and shovel it into a sack. Take great care not to damage any surface roots. Then rake the leaves back over the scraped area. Collect the material as near as possible to planting time, to avoid it deteriorating in storage. When planting, add about half a spade of the organic material to the planting hole or notch.

Leaf mould has long been used by gardeners as a mulch and compost. Many councils recycle their leaf sweepings and other plant material by making the resulting compost available within their area. Gather your own leaf mould by raking up leaves from lawns and hard surfaces, and store in heaps or bottomless bins, preferably sited on a woodland soil where any existing mycorrhiza can spread into the compost. Alternatively, try inoculating the heap with some organic material from an existing wood. The leaf mould should be stored for at least a year before it is used. Rotate the use of the heaps, so that you use the oldest material first.

Existing vegetation

In general, when planting into a grass sward such as a pasture or mown grass, it’s much better to plant direct into the sward, and then use herbicide or mulch after planting to kill the grass. If you try and remove the turf by digging, ploughing or herbicide, in order to start in ‘clean ground’, you are much more likely to have problems with weeds. An invasion of docks, nettles, thistles, couch grass and other weeds will be more troublesome than the grass sward.

Scrub and bramble are valuable wildlife habitats as they are. On sites where poor soil or exposure to the wind are limitations, bramble with small trees such as blackthorn and hawthorn are likely to be the ‘climax vegetation’, and planting other species of trees is not appropriate. However, on some fertile sites, such as abandoned farmland or allotments, bramble and scrub can take hold, and it may be the desired aim to accelerate the process to woodland. Bramble and scrub are impossible to eradicate simply by cutting down, and will quickly regrow. Depending on the aims of the planting, the best technique for establishing trees is to make use of the shelter and protection afforded by the scrub, by planting pockets within it.

Clear areas of at least 5m (16’) square and plant groups of about five trees within the cleared area. protect as necessary against animal damage. Marker poles or a detailed plan are useful so that pockets don’t get forgotten during maintenance. You will need to return frequently, probably twice during each growing season, to cut back encroaching bramble and scrub. Once the leading shoots of the new trees are clear of the scrub there should be no further need to weed. As the canopy of the new trees closes over, the growth of scrub will be suppressed.

The restocking of woodland or replanting of areas within existing woodland is not covered in detail in this handbook. Often however the same considerations as above apply, as gaps within a canopy which are large enough to support new trees also encourage the growth of bramble and other scrub species. Try and look at the proposed planting area in summer. What appears to be a large gap in a wood in winter will appear very much smaller when the woodland is in full leaf. Generally soils in woodland should be good for tree growth, but localised compaction may have occurred during extraction of timber from the woodland. See Broad (1998) for details of restocking existing woodlands.

Planting season

Planting time must be co-ordinated with the time the trees are available from the nursery, which, for bare-root trees, will depend on the date that the top growth becomes dormant in autumn. Over most of lowland Britain, the optimum is that plants are lifted from the nursery and planted out in their final positions as soon as possible after this date. This allows planting while the soil is still warm and not too wet, making planting operations easier and less damaging to the soil structure. Root growth can continue while the soil remains warm (>6˚C), even though top growth is dormant, and there is a burst of root growth just before bud burst in spring. In spring, the plants will get away to the best possible start, with roots well established before any drought sets in.

Most nurseries aim to have stock available for planting from about October to March, and may use various treatments in order to induce dormancy, or cold storage to delay bud burst. The onset of dormancy occurs later on nurseries in the south and west, on mild sites or during mild autumns, and current climatic trends are for winters to start later and end earlier.

In the mild parts of the south and west, planting may not be able to start until late November if locally produced stock is used, as the onset of dormancy will be late. Alternatively, stock from northern nurseries, which normally becomes dormant at least 2 weeks earlier, may be obtained for earlier planting. In mild winters in the south and west, planting is possible from December to February.

In colder areas, planting should only commence when soil temperatures begin to increase in February or March. There may be high losses of stock planted earlier due to deterioration during the delay before root growth commences. Plant exposed, high elevation sites from mid- March onwards. Stock which is cold stored, in order to delay bud burst, can be used from early April until mid-May.

For recommended dates for lifting and planting of broadleaves, see the table here.

Plants lifted from the nursery should be planted in their final positions with the minimum of delay. Nurseries should lift to order, and deliver as quickly as possible, although plants can be stored in bags for short periods.

Evergreens including holly, yew or juniper are best planted in either the autumn or spring, when the roots are active. Avoid the coldest period of the winter. These species are container-grown, making the planting date less crucial than for bare-root plants. Scots pine and other conifers are normally planted bare-root.

Cell-grown or container-grown plants can theoretically be planted at any time of year. However, autumn planting should be the rule for all but the coldest sites, for the reasons given above. The great advantage of cell-grown trees for growers and planters is that an earlier start to the planting season can be made, so spreading the workload over a longer period. September is the best time to plant. Moving a cell-grown plant mid-way through the growing season from the shelter of the nursery to an open planting site is likely to be damaging, and watering will be required until the plants are established.

Weather

If there is a choice, plant on dull, drizzly days, rather than in windy, sunny weather. The fine root hairs are damaged by even a short exposure to drying winds, and such damage will be minimised if the conditions are damp. Cell- grown plants will also suffer less stress if planted in moist, dull weather.

Pre-planting care

The trees should be supplied from the nursery in special sealed plastic sacks, which are white on the outside and black on the inside, to prevent the roots from drying or warming. If the trees can’t be planted straight away, they can be stored as they are in a cool, dark building for two to three weeks.

The plastic sacks must be handled very carefully, and should not be thrown down, trampled on or stacked up, as the plants inside will get damaged. Store the sacks upright and loosely packed. Do not open them, or the plants will dry out.

If there is no suitable cool indoor storage, the plants will have to be taken out of the sacks and placed in a shallow trench with roots covering the soil. If the plants are tied in bundles, don’t undo them at this stage. Use fine soil to cover the roots, so it trickles down between the roots and protects them. If the weather is dry, water the covered trench to keep the soil moist. Make sure that no-one walks on the trench, as the roots are only just below the surface and will be damaged by trampling.

Any handling of plants between delivery and planting should be minimised, because even a few moments’ exposure to the air damages the fine roots. Transfer of bare-root plants from sack to trench, from trench to planting bag or during final planting must be done speedily but carefully.

Work rates and organisation

Work rates

Rates vary greatly, depending on the terrain, and the experience and organisation of the planters. Rates for experienced volunteers are about 80-100 notch-planted transplants per person per day, or 50-75 if fitted with tree shelters. Pit planting takes longer, with about 20-30 whips per person per day a reasonable average. School children or inexperienced volunteers will be considerably slower.

• It’s usually easier to work in pairs. One person measures the spacing, cuts the notch and holds it open with the spade, while the other person quickly transfers the plant from the planting bag to the notch.
• Separate teams can check the trees are firm, and fit tree shelters, guards and mulches.
• Others can keep the teams supplied with trees and other materials.
• Swap the teams around from time to time.
• At the end of the day, make sure all unplanted trees are sealed in bags, and that all unused trees and materials are removed from the site.

Careful thought and planning needs to be given to the organisation of the planting operation. The method used will depend on the size of the planting project and the numbers of people involved. General guidelines are given below for large and small projects.

Organisation of large projects

This could include projects of about half a hectare (an acre) or more, involving the planting of 1000 trees or more, over several planting days.

The planting plan will contain the details of the planting areas, the species to be planted and the spacing. As explained in chapter 2, a simple plan which relates strongly to the site, and which has a limited number of species will be easier to plant and ultimately more successful than something which is unnecessarily complicated.

The information contained in the planting plan needs to be marked on the site in a simple way which the planters can follow. The plan will show the total area to be planted, with paths, glades, damp areas and other open spaces to be left unplanted. For some schemes, the planting area may be divided into plots or ‘compartments’, each characterised by a particular mixture of species or method of management. For each plot, the plan will show the total number of each species to be planted, and the spacing between them.

In advance of planting, each plot needs to be clearly marked on the ground. Plots should have been designed to relate strongly to the physical features of the site, so some boundaries will be obvious, such as streams or changes of slope. Hedges, walls and other man-made boundaries will also partly delineate plots. Elsewhere, mark the edges of each plot with canes, road pins and tape (as used in roadworks) or similar. Where these might be vandalised, spray paint, dye used in herbicide application or a line of sand can be used.

For each plot, make sure you have the correct number of trees of each species ready. Bare-root stock in bags should be labelled with the plot name or number, and the species name. If you have to split bags or bundles of trees between plots, do it quickly to minimise root drying, and reseal the bags. Rootrainers or similar which are no longer in their plastic cells should also be protected in bags, and labelled. It’s best to do any sorting before the planters arrive in order to avoid any delay when plants may be exposed to drying. It’s easier if the plan has been drawn up with round numbers of species for each plot, to avoid having to split bags between plots.

Spacing will normally be uniform throughout the plot. There are various methods of marking the spacing:

• One or two people can work ahead of the planters, marking the planting lines with three or more canes for each line. The planters then sight along the canes to find the line, and use a cane or similar to measure the lateral spacing.
• Alternatively, each planter works individually over part of the plot, using a measured cane to locate each planting position, in a triangular pattern.
  
• An alternative way of marking line planting when working on one’s own is shown below.
  

Planting lines make it easier to keep to patterns of groups of nine of each species, for example. It’s also easier to maintain the supply of plants, stakes, shelters and so on to the planters. Avoid having people walking through the newly planted area, apart from those who are fitting guards or mulch mats.

Either of these methods have sufficient room for error that the overall result will be informal, rather than strict rows of trees. Discrepancies from the pattern will also occur due to irregularities in the ground. Any very damp areas, not noted on the plan, should be left unplanted.

On most large scale schemes, species are planted in groups of 9 to 40, according to the overall scale of the planting and then thinned. An example might be 60% oak, 20% birch,20% rowan, to be planted in groups of 9 across the plot. The groups are usually selected randomly, rather than following a set pattern, in order to create a more natural effect in the field. This random pattern can be worked out on a plan, but following a plan is usually unworkable for plots of more than about 50 plants, as very accurate field measurements are needed both to draw up the plan, and to attempt to follow it.

It’s better to implement ‘randomness’ in the field by using the ‘coloured bead’ technique, or similar. For the above example, you could have six orange (oak), two blue (birch) and two red (rowan) beads, counters, lego bricks or similar in your pocket. At each position for a group of plants, you transfer a bead from one pocket to another, and plant the corresponding species. Mathematically this works best if you work up one line and down the next, without coming up against another team working randomly!

In practice things will not work out this neatly .Discrepancies will occur at the ends of lines, at irregularities in the ground, and where planting teams meet. As long as the lines and spacings are followed, so that at the end of the day all the trees are planted to fill the designated area, the exact pattern of groups will not matter. The main thing is to get all the trees planted properly and quickly.

At events where people are encouraged to bring their own special tree for planting, you need to plan carefully, as participants will not be pleased to find out their special tree is likely to be removed during thinning!

Organisation of small projects

Typical projects are school or community planting schemes, involving the planting of perhaps 200 or 300 trees. Normally planting would be done in one day.

Before the planters arrive, someone familiar with the scheme should mark the position of each tree or group of trees with a cane, following the plan. The canes should be colour coded with tape or similar to indicate which species is to be planted. On sites secure from vandalism this can be done on an earlier day. The trees, still securely wrapped in bags if bare-root stock, should be neatly laid out at one or more points at the edge of the site. Each bag should be clearly marked with the species name or colour code.

Where planting is being done during a school day, the children should be organised to come out onto the planting site in groups at intervals during the day. For each group, explain the purpose of the planting and show them how to plant a tree. A pair of children then each plants one or more trees. Concentrate on one part of the site at a time, and avoid having the children walk, or worse run, through the part of the site which is already planted. For bare-root stock, each pair of children should have a plastic carrier bag in which to protect the roots of their tree while they carry it from the ‘supply’ point to the planting site. At all costs avoid  having  the  children  walk  around  carrying unprotected bare-root trees. In the time taken to carry the plant, choose the cane, dig the notch and so on, the tree roots will have been damaged by exposure to the air. Alternatively, other people can carry the plants in the bags to the planting position, and only take the tree out when the notch or hole is ready.

For secondary school children, each team can then fit the treeshelter, guard or mulch mat as necessary. With younger children, it’s usually best if more experienced volunteers follow up with this work later in the day, or on another day.