Cross-cutting felled timber into shorter lengths is usually necessary. As a rough guide, timber over 300mm (12”) dbh should only be felled and handled by trained and competent operators. Apart from the dangers of felling and handling, good quality hardwood timber of this size can be valuable and can be spoiled if not cut properly. Timber of 150-300mm (6-12”) diameter has a variety of possible end uses and should be cut to length accordingly. Branches, ‘lop and top’ and other material smaller than about 150mm (6”) diameter should be cut into 1.2m (4’) lengths and stacked in a cord. This can later be used for firewood, charcoal, pulp, woodchips or other uses. For greenwood crafts (chapter 10), select pieces for particular uses and stack separately for early removal from the woodland.

Cross-cutting is normally done at the time of felling, after the branches have been snedded. If the timber is to be peeled, this should be done before cross-cutting. Whether you choose to cross-cut at the stump or at the disposal point depends on the size and weight of the material. Try to minimise the amount of handling. For example, material which can be dragged or carried should be taken to the stacking area before cross-cutting. Otherwise, cut at the stump into manageable lengths with final cutting at the stacking point. Do not cross-cut on very steep slopes, as short lengths are dangerous and hard to extract in this situation.

General points

  • Get the log off the ground, if possible, by supporting it near the point where it is to be cut. Ideally, it should be between knee and waist height.
  • Where you are cross-cutting a quantity of fairly small poles, it is worth making up a saw horse to hold the wood firmly at a convenient height.
    Using a saw horse
  • Material which is too large for a saw horse is best supported on the stack, rather than across a single log.
    Support larger branches on stack
  • When cutting large logs on the ground, start from the lighter top end first. This makes it easier to lift the log onto a support. When cutting poles on a saw horse, cut from the butt end so that the pole does not overbalance.
  • Make as many cuts as possible with the wood under tension, so that the cut opens away from the saw.
  • Usually the final cut must be made with the log supported at both ends. In this situation the log is under compression, so the saw is likely to bind in the cut. Avoid this by inserting a small wedge in the cut, or support the log with one hand, lifting it just enough to keep the cut open while you finish it. Logs too heavy for this should be rotated as soon as the saw starts to bind, so that you cut through from two or three places, each turned upwards in succession.
    Rotating larger logs to cut
  • You may not be quite able to sever the log by cutting around it. Finish the job by giving the log a knock with a lump or sledge hammer, or by pushing it off the support onto the ground, where the impact usually breaks it.

Bowsaw

  • The bowsaw is the best tool for cross-cutting small logs. Use a saw of adequate size for the diameter of the logs.
  • Stand with your feet apart, both feet in line with the cut. Hold the saw with both hands. Don’t use your thumb to guide the blade, as you would in carpentry.
  • Use a more pronounced rocking motion than when felling, using your body as well as your arms to power the stroke. Saw with fairly slow strokes. To speed up the work, increase pressure on the saw rather than the speed of the stroke. Cut easily on the push stroke, and use more pressure and rocking motion on the pull stroke.
    Cutting log with large bowsaw
  • When cross-cutting a log which is near the ground, use a half-kneeling position. You won’t be able to rock the saw, so increase pressure instead. Don’t push so hard that the blade starts to turn in the cut, this being a problem mainly with dull or damaged blades.

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