Marsh
These plants grow in damp ground, not necessarily near open water. They may be found in damp meadows, marshes, ditches and near streams and ponds. The design of a new pond can include a marsh area, or a separate marsh area can be constructed. See Scrapes and marshes, and diagrams on here and here.
Forget-me-not (Myosotis sp)
Greater spearwort (Ranunculus lingua)
Hemp agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum)
Marsh woundwort (Stachys palustris)
Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria)
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)
Skullcap (Scutellaria galericulata)
Spearmint (Mentha spicata)
Water speedwell (Veronica anagallis-aquatica)
Watermint (Mentha aquatica)
Plan to complete a marsh area in spring or autumn, and plant immediately after completion to reduce competition from other plants. Planting distances should be fairly close at about 200mm (8”), to reduce competition from coarse grasses and other unwanted plants. If necessary, concentrate planting in a few clumps, leaving the rest to vegetate naturally. Once established, dig up rooted pieces from the existing clumps, and use them for new planting. Unwanted growth of grasses or other plants can be dug up or sprayed with glyphosate as necessary. Bare areas of mud and small temporary pools within the marsh are useful habitat for invertebrates and other organisms, as well as providing a substrate for seeds to germinate, hopefully of desirable species.
Docks, thistles, nettles and bramble are likely to appear fairly soon, and although they have wildlife value, you will need to keep them under control. As a first measure, remove the heads of unwanted plants before they seed. Docks, nettles and some thistles can be pulled up or dug out when small, but large clumps of nettles and creeping thistles are more difficult to deal with. Cutting with a scythe, strimmer or mower when near full growth will help reduce their vigour. Nettles, docks and thistles can be killed with a translocated herbicide such as glyphosate, but this is non-selective, so ensure the spray does not touch any vegetation you want to keep. Treat in late spring, at near maximum growth. Brambles are best cut back, and the cut stems treated with glyphosate. For general information on herbicides, see here.
Grazing is the best way of maintaining marshes and wet grassland, but this is impractical for many small areas.
Otherwise, cut in late summer with a scythe, strimmer, hover mower or wheeled rotary mower. Make use of any dry spells of weather when access is easier without causing damage to the ground.
Vegetation can also be managed by seasonal flooding. For further details see Burgess, Neil and Hirons, Graham JM (1990) and Merritt (1994).
Buffer zone
Ensure that part of the pond edge is bordered by long grass, shrubs or other vegetation which discourage access by people, and encourage access by animals. An area fenced to exclude people and left unmanaged will rapidly grow up with brambles, nettles and so on to provide suitable cover. Once bramble is established the fence can be removed, and edges mowed or cut back to prevent further spread. Alternatively, a variety of native or introduced shrubs can be planted according to species typical of the locality. Suitable natives include dogwood, guelder rose, hazel, holly, butcher’s broom, hawthorn, privet, sallow and wild rose. In parks and school grounds, garden species may be appropriate, but choose ones which have flowers or berries that are attractive to wildlife.
Watch out for vigorous plants with underground stems growing at the edge of ponds with flexible liners, as the shoots can come up from underneath the liner and puncture it. Couch grass, bramble, blackthorn, cherry and some garden plants such as bamboo and sumach (Rhus typhina) may cause problems.
Alders and willows are typical of damp ground near natural ponds and streams, but may not be appropriate for ground near artificial ponds, which is likely to be free draining or dry in summer. Willows and alders are fairly tolerant of drought once established, and look right near ponds. The normal advice is to not plant trees too near to ponds, as the shade will reduce the variety of pond life attracted, and falling leaves will hasten silting of the pond. However, shady ponds have their own particular associated organisms, so a choice may be made to create some shade. Shade suppresses the growth of marginal and other aquatic plants, so slowing the rate of succession and siltation of a pond.
Choose native tree species which are local to the area and appropriate in ultimate size. Purchase young plants (whips or transplants), plant firmly, and keep a square metre of bare ground around the young tree for the first few years by using mulch or herbicide. Trees and shrubs should never be planted on earth dams, as their roots can penetrate and weaken the dam, and the growth also disguises any early signs of slippage or failure of the dam. Keep the dam as short, mown grass. Trees should also not be planted within 3.5m (12’) of canals, to prevent damage to banks and lock walls, and to allow access along towpaths.
On larger ponds, lakes and gravel pits, an ‘instant’ deadwood habitat can be provided by hauling convenient fallen or felled trees to the water ’s edge, and placing them partly into the water. The deadwood not only supports a range of invertebrates and other organisms, but the branches provide potential nesting sites for coots and moorhens with sheltered water for their young.
Cover for hibernating toads and newts is easily provided by leaving some piles of timber, logs, bricks, stones, leaves and other material. If they are likely to be disturbed by vandals, let brambles or nettles grow over to cover. Compost heaps attract hibernating amphibians, reptiles and other animals, and may be used as breeding sites by slow-worms or grass snakes. To avoid disturbing hibernating or breeding animals, use the compost either in early spring after emergence of hibernators (look out for spawn in the pond showing the adults have emerged) or in early autumn before hiberation. Build at least two compost heaps.
