Various methods of edging a path are discussed below.
Excavated
This is the normal method for most situations, very wet soils excepted. Paths of stone aggregate should be contained along an excavated line, called the path tray, otherwise the layer of aggregate spreads and becomes too thin to be effective, as well as being unnecessarily wide. Pitching stone is usually set into a tray, so that the top of the pitching stone is just below the level of the surrounding ground. The path looks less obtrusive in the landscape than a path with a raised edge, and grass can spread from the sides to protect the surface. The line of the path can be cut by hand or using an excavator. The ‘cut’ can be used elsewhere as ‘fill’ along the path or to restore eroded areas.
Hard edgings
This method can be used to raise a path above a high water table. The raised edge does provide a slight psychological barrier which discourages walkers from stepping off the path. Little or no excavation is required, except to provide firm footings for the edging. The disadvantage is that once the path fill becomes compacted below the level of the edgings, water cannot easily drain away. Frequent topping-up and reforming of the camber may be necessary.
The edging can be of sawn timber, sleepers, logs or boulders. Sawn timber about 100mm x 25mm, treated with preservative is suitable. Secure with square wooden stakes, angle iron or metal pins. Knock in a few test stakes to determine the length required to give a secure hold. Weather the tops of wooden stakes, and knock angle iron or pins below the top of the edging, using a punch if necessary. This allows for any settlement, which could expose the tops of the pins.
Log edgings have the advantage of giving a more ‘natural’ edge, and can be fixed unobtrusively. They are best used for woodland paths using timber cut from nearby.
Stones and boulders are not recommended unless they can be effectively hidden by vegetation. Unfortunately, they are usually the easiest material to use on open hillsides, where they give a result more appropriate to a seaside garden. Even if initially well covered with the base and surfacing material, they tend to get exposed as the material is compacted or eroded, leaving conspicuous lines of boulders. If surfacing is necessary on open hillsides, an excavated or informally edged path is recommended.
Turf edgings can be used in conjunction with geotextiles.
Where possible, avoid edgings of any type, as they are an added expense, intrusive in appearance, and maintenance will be required both to edgings and path fill. Except in waterlogged situations, an excavated or informally edged path are preferable.
Informal edge
This is suitable for material such as hoggin which sets solid when compacted. The path will be weak at the edges, and tempting to walk off, so this is only appropriate for fairly resistant situations such as grassland, dry heath and wood. On grassland areas, where turf becomes damaged by trampling in wet conditions, it may be possible to put down a path of this type which will then naturally grass over from the sides, creating a trample-resistant route which is not necessarily visible as a path. Where this follows the desire line, most walkers will follow it.
Paths along contours
The usual technique on steep hillside is to cut, fill and revet. Revetments are described in Chapter 11 – Erosion control and vegetation restoration.
On shallow slopes, the path can be edged along the lower side, using any of the edgings described above.
