Stile designs

British Standard

This is based on British Standard 5709:2006.

British Standard stile timber requirements

The rails are mortised into the posts as shown here. The step should be set at an angle of between 45 and 90 degrees to the rail. The choice depends on the slope of the ground and the preference of the stile builder. (1) above is comfortable for most people. Less agile walkers may prefer (2), which allows one to face sideways while crossing the stile, holding onto the handhold throughout.

Rebated stile

This example is shown with two steps, for use on a slope, and a handhold to aid the less agile. The rails are fixed using the rebated joint described here.

Rebated stile timber requirements

The heights of the steps, step supports and rails are given as an example only, and will have to be adapted to fit the slope. The major problem is choosing the spacing of the rails so they do not coincide with the steps. It may be better to cut the rebates on site, which can be done after the post holes have been dug and the positions tried out. The gap between the rails should not be more than 300mm, and a rail with its top edge lower than 200mm is wasted. As shown in the example above, the lower step has a rise of less than 300mm on the lower side of the slope, to allow for erosion to expose more of the step support. Surfacing will help prevent this. The upper slope is protected by the ‘ground level’ step.

An alternative method of making a lower step is to rebate it into the support for the higher step. This is particularly useful where the ground levels are different on either side of the stile, as often found on old field boundaries. The step support should be 100 x 100, and the step 100 x 50mm, for a strong and neat construction.

Four rail stile

This design is suitable where a higher barrier is needed against stock, with four rails required to make the stile stock-proof. Always consult with the farmer about requirements for stock.

Stake stile

This stile can be quickly erected by inexperienced volunteers using the minimum of tools.

Timber: beech or chestnut, peeled, untreated. (∅ = diam.)

Stake stile timber requirements

Drive posts in using Drive-all or mell. Drill all nail holes.

Wortley stile

This stile has no step, so it is quick to construct and install, and economical in materials. It is useful on ground where holes are difficult to dig. Its disadvantage is that it is more difficult to climb than a stile with a step, and strain is put on the top rail as the walker pulls up over the stile.

The middle rail is mortised into the middle of the stile posts so that the footrails project well beyond the edges of the middle rail, thus giving a secure foothold. The top rail is rounded and mortised into the stile posts, with metal straps for added security. This is a robust stile, and comfortable to sit on as you climb over.

Don’t try to substitute the large top rail with a double rail, as the extra width makes the stile awkward to straddle, and it is possible to catch one’s foot in the gap.

Timber:

Mortises:

Fittings:

Stiles for existing fencing

The designs below are for fitting stiles to existing fencing, without having to make a gap or re-strain the fence.

Step for post and wire fence

This requires an existing fence post strong enough to provide a secure fixing for the handhold. Alternatively, a new post can be put in. Two steps will be needed for a fence higher than 900mm. The steps are shorter than usual to make them inaccessible to sheep. If the wire is barbed, remove the barbs for a width of one metre. This is most easily done with two pairs of pliers. For stock netting, adapt the heights of the steps to fit through the spaces in the fencing.

If the existing fence posts are not strong enough to provide a handhold, a complete stile will have to be fitted. The stile posts should not be used to strain the fence. The stile rails must be fitted to coincide with the heights of the wires. The wires are then stapled against the rails, but without straining the fence. The rebated stile is suitable, or in the case where post holes are difficult to dig because of the fence, the driven-in stake stile may be a better choice.

Stile for post and rail fence

This design should only be used if the fence is in good enough condition to give a secure fixing for the handhold. Note that the rise of each step is greater than previously recommended, but is reasonable for the height of fence being negotiated.

Timber:

Step-through stiles

These stiles are different in principle from the previous designs. The width is narrow, but the top rail is low, so that the walker can step straight through.

The main advantage of the design below is in the saving of timber, but it is also useful in narrow wall or hedge gaps, where there is not enough room for a step-over stile.

Timber:

The V-shaped step-through stile has a lower rise between the step and the rail, and is popular with less agile walkers. It may not be proof against breeds of hill sheep. Because of the V, rather more timber is required than for a conventional stile.

Narrower ‘squeeze’ stiles are shown below. The design without a separate step is useful for bridge ends, where step supports are awkward to fit. The design with two high handholds is popular with walkers, but is expensive in timber.

Stile for disabled people

This is an adaptation of a design recommended by the Countryside Commission (Countryside Commission, revised 1994). The steps are low and wide, with the top designed to allow a person to sit on it and swing their legs over. The handholds must be checked frequently to make sure they are secure in the ground.

Timber:

Step supports of peeled larch or pine, of about 200mm diameter. Two each of lengths 1500, 850 and 570 mm.

Dog  latches

These are useful on popular paths where the stile needs to be sheep-proof. The gap between uprights should be 250 to 300mm wide, and a minimum of 450mm high. Various designs and methods of fitting the latch can be used. Dowel, studding or metal pipe can be set into the latch to use as a handle, and to prevent removal of the latch.

This design is economical in timber. The latch is designed so that it does not protrude above the top rail.

This is a neat design for a double stile.