Ladder stiles

Ladder stiles are used mainly in upland areas to cross dry stone walls. As well as being robust enough to stand heavy use and weather over many years, they serve as useful ‘waymarks’, particularly for leading people down the correct route off the fellside into enclosed farmland.

They should normally be assembled on site, both because they are too heavy to easily transport once made, and because exact dimensions are difficult to predict. These dimensions will depend on the height and width of the wall or fence, and the slope of the ground. Often hole digging is a problem because of rocky ground, and the stile cannot go exactly where intended.

The most important feature is that the steps are securely fixed and regularly spaced on any one stile, or else it is easy to stumble. A spacing of between 300 and 350mm is suitable. The length of the platform cannot be determined until the Aframes are assembled, and it is better to measure and cut the platform timber on site.

Step-ladder stile

Although this stile requires more timber and may take longer to construct that the rung-ladder stile, it is recommended as it is easier to climb.

The steps can either be rebated into the ‘A’ frames, or held by extra pieces of timber cut as shown, and nailed or screwed to the ‘A’ frame. These pieces can be easily cut on site and attached so they grip the steps firmly. They can be removed if steps need replacing. The steps should be 50mm thick to give many years of use, and spaced to a maximum rise of 300mm. To cross a wide barrier such as a wall, a platform will need to be attached to the top steps, as in the rung-ladder stile.

The stile should be tightened with a tie rod of studding or fencing wire to hold the steps firmly in position. A strip of expanded metal stapled to each step will prevent them becoming slippery in muddy conditions.

Rung-ladder stile

These are suitable for remote locations where they are unlikely to be used by less agile walkers. The rungs must always be rebated, and not simply held by nails which could become loose after a year or two. A tie rod is not required, as the rungs hold the frames in position.

Timber:

The crossover of the ‘A’ frames means that the platform has to be offset. The gaps on either side of the platform can be filled with shorter pieces, which looks neater and prevents the danger of a foot getting caught. However, as these can only easily be fixed by nailing to the ‘A’ frame from underneath, they are not very strong. For simplicity of construction, it is probably better to leave the gaps on either side. The stobs hold the stile securely in the ground.

Procedure

1. If there is a choice of site, look for a position where the ground is level. This not only makes the stile easier to build, but lessens the problem of the ground eroding at the base of the stile. On a slope, this can progressively expose the stobs until the stile is left suspended and liable to collapse.

If the stile is to cross a wall, avoid places where the wall curves or is irregular in width, or the ‘A’ frames will be difficult to line up.

2. Hold one piece of an ‘A’ frame roughly in place, to mark the position of the hole. Usually this will be between 400 and 500mm away from the wall. Dig the holes for one ‘A’ frame to a depth of about 300mm.
3. Two people then hold the pieces of the ‘A’ frame in place, while a third marks the line where they cross. The frame should not touch the wall.
4. Lay the frame on the ground at the marked angle, drill and fix with coach bolt. Put the head of the bolt to the inside of the stile.
5. Set the ‘A’ frame into position. Knock in a stob, as deep as possible, immediately next to the base of the frame. Nail the stob to the frame. The stob may have to be sawn off if rocky ground prevents it being knocked in fully. Backfill with earth, ramming continuously to get it very firm.
6. Erect the second ‘A’ frame in the same way.
7. Mark the position of the platform so that it clears the wall. Use a spirit level to get it horizontal. Measure from this mark down to the ground, and divide by 350 to give the positions of the rungs.
   If this leaves an awkward gap at the bottom, adjust the spacing up to a maximum of 400mm. Try and use the same spacing on either side of the stile. The bottom rung can be set lower than 350mm to allow for erosion, but preferably prevent the erosion rather than allow for it. Note that the rung supporting the platform is set about 50mm below the horizontal mark, to allow for the thickness of the platform.
8. Cut 25mm deep rebates, and screw the rungs in place. Chamfer the top rung to give a horizontal face to which the platform is nailed. Chamfer the ends of the platform timbers and tops of the ‘A’ frames, which form the handholds.
   
9. Surface the ground at either side of the stile to prevent erosion. Stream gravel or packed stone are suitable, laid in an informal manner that does not detract from the surroundings.