Line and location
- Avoid straight lines. Long straight flights of steps are an intimidating prospect for the walker, and look out of place in rural settings. Break up long flights with bends and ramps.
Straight steps are also more difficult to drain effectively, as water tends to collect behind each riser, or run down the sides of the steps, causing erosion.
Cliff-top paths may well have no alternative to the direct line. In this case, the steps should be built as close as possible to a staircase, with even width and gradient, landings where possible, and a handrail.
- When choosing the line of the steps, look at the site from both above and below. Walkers going down are more likely to take short cuts, and it is this that causes most of the damage to slopes. Make sure that the line can be clearly seen from above, and that any possible short cuts are blocked or disguised.
- Avoid building sidehill steps, especially across unstable slopes. They are difficult to construct, and need abutments above and below. The treads tend to drain too quickly, causing erosion on the lower side. If possible, build on a steep oblique line, which is easier to drain.
Dimensions
The dimensions of stone steps will be dictated by the stone available, but must be at least 600mm wide, which only allows single-width use. Steps for two-way use can be built of several large stones, to make a step at least 1000mm wide. The rise formed by the stone should be between 150mm and 200mm.
Wooden steps should be 1200mm wide to allow comfortable two-way use, and with a rise of 150 or 200mm. Wide steps look more attractive and less steep than narrow steps. Both for these reasons, and because they give more room for traffic flow, wide steps are likely to be followed by walkers.
The timbers themselves may be wider than the finished step width, depending on the method of construction.
The depth of the tread depends on the gradient of the slope.
500mm is the minimum depth of tread and should only be used on ‘staircase’ type flights, and should be broken where possible with a landing. Most slopes have a changing gradient which can be climbed with flights of one or two pace steps, divided by ramps. It is not possible to maintain a constant depth and tread on a variable slope, but try to keep the same depth of tread in any one flight. As shown, treads should always be built with a rise from front to back. This is not only very important for drainage (see below), but saves on the total number of steps needed, and forms steps that are comfortable to walk up and down as they do not break the rhythm of walking.
In general, wooden steps look better, and are safer to use, if built to a regular width, height and depth on any one flight, with stobs aligned neatly. Stone steps, built of natural, rough stone in an upland setting will blend better in the landscape if they are of varying dimension, to avoid a formal staircase effect.
Estimating materials
It is important to survey the slope in some way in order to design the flights and landings or ramps, and estimate the amount of materials needed. If surveying equipment and expertise is not available, either of the following methods can be used. Both can be done by one person on their own.
Clinometer
To measure a simple slope of even gradient:
- Put a ranging pole or cane, with an easily visible mark on it at your eye height, in the ground at the top of the slope. Attach the end of a tape to the bottom of the pole.
- Walk down the slope, unreeling the tape as you go.
- Note the measurement at the bottom of the slope, and read off the angle of slope with an Abney level or clinometer using the mark on the ranging pole.
Complex slopes can be measured by repeating this process at each change in the angle of slope.
Level
This is a similar technique, but measures the height instead of the angle. Use a sextant or a home-made level.
- Put a ranging pole or cane in the ground at the top of the slope, with a tape attached to the bottom of the pole.
- Back down the slope until the level indicates that your eye height is level with the bottom of the pole, unreeling the tape as you go. Note the tape measurement to your feet, and put down a temporary mark (eg the level or your notebook) at that spot.
- Retrieve the ranging pole, stick it in the ground at the marked spot, and repeat the process.
This information can be drawn directly onto graph paper. At a suitable scale, draw in the vertical line x. Place the ruler through point A, and swing it until y meets the line CB.
