This type of fencing is used for privacy and security, for windbreaks and shelters. There are two main types:
- Board fencing is basically a mortised or nailed post and rail fence, with vertical boards, called pales, nailed on. This makes a strong and durable fence which can’t be seen through, and is difficult to climb over. The fence is built on site, and is slower to erect than a fence of prefabricated panels. A fence with gaps between the pales is usually called a paling fence, and is mainly used for garden and ornamental fencing.
- Panel or screen fencing is made of prefabricated panels, which are attached to wooden or concrete posts with brackets, or by a slot in the post. There are many different types of panels available, from those with overlapping waney-edged boards, to open trellis panels for garden screening. Wattle hurdles, made of hazel, are a traditional form of this type of fence, originally used for enclosing sheep, but now used for garden fencing and windbreaks. Norfolk reed fencing panels and gates are made of reed sandwiched in wooden battens, with a wooden capping to shed rainwater.
Most board fencing and panel fencing is made of pressure-treated softwood, although pales of cleft oak may also be obtainable. Gravel boards are usually recommended, which are wooden or concrete boards which fit along the base of the fence and protect the pales or panels from rot. Post tops should be weathered, or have wooden post caps to protect the end-grain. Careful erection is necessary, particularly firming the posts, as any wind-rock action will soon loosen the fence.
Board fencing can be erected to follow a slope, although the bottom of the pales will need cutting to fit the slope of the gravel board. Panel fencing can only be erected in a stepped profile as shown.
Board fencing
The following design is for a typical board fence. Posts are 125 x 100mm (5 x 4″), and 600mm (2ft) longer than the fence height, with weathered tops and rebates for the rails. Two rails are used for 1.2m (4ft) high fence, and three rails for taller fences. The pales are 100mm (4″) wide, sawn to a taper, above a 150mm (6″) gravel board. All wood is pressure treated softwood.
75mm galvanised nails are used for attaching rails and gravel boards (1kg for 75ft of fence), and 50mm galvanised nails for attaching the pales (1kg for 30ft of fence).
Posts are normally concreted in position. Great care must be taken that posts are vertical. Once the post and rails have been erected, the gravel board is attached. Finally the pales are nailed on in the sequence shown. A gauge can be made up for easy fitting of the pales.
The following design has nailed rails and spaced boards. Height, board size and spacing can be altered to suit the requirements of the fence.
Alternate-board fencing can be constructed, with either vertical or horizontal boards. These have the advantage of looking the same from either side, rather than having an outer and inner face. When set vertically, the pales give a varying sense of enclosure, according to the angle at which they are viewed. Total screening can be made by overlapping the boards.
Panel fencing
The following are some of the types of panels available. All are produced in 1.8m (6ft) lengths, and most are available in various heights up to 1.8m (6ft).
Procedure
The general procedure for erecting a panel fence is as follows. The exact method of fixing the panel to the posts will vary with the manufacturer.
- Clear the fence line of obstruction.
- Dig the hole for the end post. This will normally be 600mm (2ft) deep, and the width of the spade. This allows a sufficient volume of concrete to hold the post firmly. Use a spirit level to check that the post is exactly vertical. Backfill with concrete.
- Run a line from the post to the end of the run of fence, stretching it taut. Measure along the length of the panel, and dig the next hole. Panels are normally attached between the posts, so the panel length must be measured from the edges of the posts, not the centre.
- Set the second post in the hole, but don’t backfill it. Either get someone to hold it, or use battens temporarily nailed to prop the post in position.
- Set the panel in position, checking it is the right way up and correct side facing. Chock the panel up with blocks to give sufficient room for the gravel board. Attach to the posts as recommended by the manufacturer.
- Concrete the second post in position, and then repeat the procedure for the remaining length of fence. Don’t erect the posts ahead of the panels, as there is no way of compensating for any slight error in measuring either the distance or the verticality of the post.
- Attach gravel board, post caps and capping strips as necessary.
