Gateways and gates

Type of use

Vehicles and machinery

In choosing the width of the gate and the layout of the gateway, consider what type of vehicles and machinery are going to need access. Normal field gates are 3.66m (12′) wide, which is wide enough for a standard tractor, but larger tractors, combine harvesters and other agricultural or forestry machinery will need wider gateways. The splay and layout of the gateway, and the way that the gates open, are also important to permit easy manoeuvring of vehicles. Badly designed gateways will soon get damaged.

Gate widths can be confusing. Metal field gates tend to be supplied in imperial measurements, in foot intervals as listed below. Wooden gates tend to be supplied in metric sizes, in 300mm intervals. Make sure you get the exact size that you need, and not just an approximate metric/imperial equivalent. Latches, hinges and other gate fittings can also be confusing, so it’s best to buy the posts and gate as a unit, and erect them at the same time. Posts only have to be a few centimetres out of position to be useless. If purchasing a gate for an existing gateway, make sure you have the exact dimensions, including measurements and details of the hooks, latches and other fittings.

The following are some examples of field gate sizes available from national suppliers. Dimensions refers to the external width of the gate (see diagram here).

Stock

Gates must be as proof against stock or wild animals as the fence itself. Consider:

• The height of the gate. The standard height for field gates, measured to the top of the top bar, is 1.15m (3′ 9″), giving a height of 1.2m (4′) when hung. This is suitable for most stock. Gates in deer fencing need to be 1.8m (6′) high, and fully meshed, to prevent animals clambering between the bars. Gates can be made out of wood, or metal deer gates, width 10′ and 12′, are available (Tornado).
• The spacing of the gate members, and the clearance above the ground. Hexagonal mesh can be attached to most types of gates to make them proof against lambs, dogs and so on. Metal gates are available with mesh panels welded to the lower section, as shown. Gates covered with sheet metal are also obtainable. Solid sills of metal or wood at ground level between the posts will prevent rabbits burrowing, but any clearance gap smaller than 31mm (1 1/4″) will need blocking or juvenile rabbits are able to get through. Step-over pedestrian gates, with a solid raised metal sill, are available from Centrewire Ltd.
  
• The gate latch. Horses, cattle and goats may learn to operate gate latches, so ensure that a suitably secure latch is fitted.

Frequency of use

Gates, posts and fittings are expensive to buy and time consuming to erect. If gateways are to be used only infrequently, for example for access to a woodland for management work, slip gates or rails may be adequate.

Emergency use

This may include access for firefighting, and to enable stock to be moved quickly in case of flood or fire. In particular, long stretches of strained wire fences should include emergency access points, as repair is time consuming if the fence has to be cut. By comparison, a nailed post and rail fence can be breached by removing a few rails, which are easily replaced.

In areas liable to flood, provide a gateway that leads to higher ground so that stock can be quickly moved to safety. For firefighting, especially likely in woods and heaths, gateways should be at least 3m (10′) wide, and clearly marked as emergency access to discourage parking of cars.

Personnel or stretcher gates, for removing casualties from mountain areas, can be built into strained wire deer fences.

Selective use

You may wish to provide access for one type of use, but exclude another. For example, the gateway shown below can be negotiated by horse-riders, but discourages motor cyclists as it is difficult to lift a bike over the sills.

Siting and design

Where possible, avoid low-lying ground and badly drained soil, as gateways get muddy and poached (heavily trampled) in wet weather. Choose the higher points along the fence line. Also avoid sloping ground, as this causes problems with the hanging and opening of the gate.

Gateways are usually sited so that stock and machinery can be moved around farms and nature reserves without having to use public roads. Gateways onto public roads also tend to encourage trespass, as the gateway provides a pull-in for cars, and access for people to picnic or dump rubbish. On the other hand, the need for all-weather access to fields, and for emergency access, requires some gates onto public roads. Planning permission may be needed for gates opening onto public roads.

Gates are normally hung so that they open into fields, and away from tracks and roads. However, there are many exceptions to this, due to sloping ground, corner sites or other special requirements.

Gateways can be designed so that the gates can be used in more than one position. In the example below, the gate gives access to a field shelter from one of two paddocks. This is useful for stock, such as horses and goats, which like access to shelter at all times, and allows paddocks to be rested alternately.

The following arrangement is useful for moving stock, as the gates are designed to close off the adjacent tracks.

Wooden gates

Traditionally gates were made out of wood, normally oak for its durability. Most wooden gates now available are made out of imported hardwood such as keruing, or of pressure treated softwood. Centrewire Ltd promotes the use of untreated timber, because of concerns about the environmental impact of chemical preservatives. They can supply gates made from the heartwood of untreated larch or Douglas fir, which have a life of at least 15 years. Gate posts, and the posts and rails for kissing gates are also available in naturally durable timber.

Wooden gates look attractive, and if well made and properly hung, can be extremely durable. If one or two bars get broken, repair is possible. Wooden gates should always have a brace, which runs from the base of the heel to the top rail. As shown, this transfers the strain down to the base of the hanging post. All wooden gates, however narrow, should be built to this basic design.

For good appearance, and to function properly as a barrier, the gate should match the fence it adjoins, for example a palisade fence should have a matching palisade gate. Wooden gates are fairly easy to make, although they will not be as durable as manufactured mortised gates.

Wooden gates are heavier than equivalent length metal gates. This restricts them to a maximum length of 3.6m (11′ 9″) for hardwood gates, and 4.2m (13′ 9″) for softwood gates.

Wooden gates are normally supplied without fittings or latch, which are then chosen to suit requirements. Prices vary, but softwood gates are about the same price as equivalent metal gates, with fittings an additional cost. Hardwood gates are considerably more expensive than softwood or metal gates.

Metal gates

Metal gates are used for their lightness and strength, allowing single gates up to 16′ (4.8m) wide to be made. Field gates should be made of round or square section tube, which is stronger than metal angle, and is supplied galvanised. Small gates can be made out of metal angle, and are normally supplied with a red oxide finish. Single braces usually run the opposite way to those on wooden gates, and act in tension to keep the gate a true rectangle.

Most metal gates have adjustable eyes, so they can be adjusted as necessary to fit the hooks on existing gate posts. Metal gates are supplied with the latch ready fitted. , where the posts are joined by a horizontal bar below the ground, have the advantage of rigidity and ease of installation. The gate and its posts are installed as a unit, and as the posts cannot move out of alignment, the gate is guaranteed to work accurately over a long working life. H frames are available for bridle, pedestrian, mobility vehicle and kissing gates (Centrewire Ltd).

A disadvantage of light metal gates is that they are easily buckled by the impact of a vehicle, making them difficult to operate and liable to rust where galvanising is damaged.

Gate hanging

Normally gates are hung behind the posts. This allows the gate to be opened fully through 180 degrees, and keeps the gate and fittings out of the way of vehicles and animals passing through. Gates should be hung between posts only when it is necessary for the gate to swing in both directions. The effective width is about the same for either method, as shown below.

For the gate hung behind posts, the distance between posts should equal the length of the gate less 50mm (2″), so that the gate overlaps each post by 25mm (1″). A standard hanging set, and auto-catch or spring fastener are the usual fittings (see below).

For the gate hung between posts, the distance between posts should equal the length of the gate plus 192mm (7 1/2″), which allows 110mm (4 1/2″) for the hanging set, and 82mm (3 3/4″) for the catch. This distance may vary according to the type of catch.

The thrust of a wooden gate is taken as shown. The top hook is on a through bolt, to resist the pulling force, and the bottom hook is driven part way, to take the pushing force of the gate.

Gates should be hung on posts which are separate from the fence, and should never be hung on straining posts, as either the gate or fence or both will be adversely affected. Two suitable arrangements are shown below. Note that the short rails are not attached to the hanging post, so that if the gate post gets knocked by a vehicle, the fence is not affected.

Wooden posts

Wooden posts should be made of hardwood, pressure treated softwood, or the heartwood of larch. Suitable sizes are:

Hanging posts:

150 x 150mm (6″ x 6″) x 2.4m (8′) Gates up to 3m (9’10″) length.
175 x 175mm (7″ x 7″) x 2.4m (8′) Gates over 3m (9’10″) length.
200mm (8″) diameter x 2.4m (8′) Gates over 3m (9’10″) length.

Shutting post:

Normally 150 x 150mm (6″ x 6″) x 2.4m (8″).

Both hanging and shutting posts should be supplied with weathered tops, to shed rain water. Fit a piece of aluminium or tin to protect the tops of railway sleepers and other flat-topped posts.

Metal posts

Metal posts are set in concrete and can therefore be shorter than wooden posts. The post usually has an integral ‘foot’ to help hold the post firm. New metal gates should be supplied with matching posts. The following sizes are a guide to those available:

Diameter x length

90mm (3 1/2″) x 1.8m (6′) Light gates up to 3.6m (12′)
115mm (4 1/2″) x 2m (6’6″) Heavy gates up to 3.6m (12′)
140mm (5 1/2″) x 2m (6’6″) Heavy gates over 3.6m (12′)

If fitting an existing gate to a new post, or vice versa, remember that the hooks on metal posts are integral and cannot be altered. Most metal gates are fitted with one or both eyes that can be adjusted.

Fittings for wooden gates

Ideally a gate should hang so that it is 50mm (2″) off the ground, measured from the bottom of the hanging stile. The heights of the hooks in the post must be carefully measured for each pattern of gate, as the heights will vary according to the positions of the top and bottom ride on the gate.

A standard hanging set comprises a top ride, bottom ride, hook to bolt and hook to drive, as shown below. Different hooks are also available, for brick pillars, stone pillars and light gates, as shown.

The hooks must be precisely positioned, as shown below. The gate should rest in any position in which it is placed.

Self-closing gates

Self-closing gates are useful on rights of way, as they avoid the possibility of gates being left open allowing stock to stray. A test of a good self-closing gate is whether it closes the last few centimetres. It is fairly easy to fit a mechanism which will partially close the gate, but more difficult to fit one that will ensure the gate closes and latches by itself. Self-closing mechanisms need to be robust to work for a long period without maintenance. There are various methods of making a gate self-close:

• Special offset hinges are available, either ready fitted to metal or wooden gates, or for fitting to existing or home-made gates. Hinges which are self-closing and allow two-way opening to 45, 90 and 180 degrees are available (Centrewire Ltd).
• By fitting normal hinges offset vertically, a gate can be made to self-close (see below). This is not normally recommended, because the gate does not then shut square, and only the top part touches the shutting post when in the closed position. Properly designed offset hinges are more effective, and do not put any extra stress on the gate.
• Springs which are fitted between the gate and the post are available (Jacksons, British Gates and Timber Ltd) or can be improvised. The spring compresses as the gate opens, and then expands to push the gate shut. These can be effective, but are not very neat and may fail after some years’ use.
• A weight on a short length of cable can be rigged up to close the gate, but the weight can be a danger to people using the gate.

Two-way opening

Gates which open both ways are easy to use because there is no need to ‘back up’ as you open the gate, making them especially useful for horseriders and users of mobility vehicles. Two-way opening also avoids having to leave extra space for manoeuvring around the gate, so is useful where space is limited.

Two-way opening gates must be hung between the posts. For security against stock, two-way gates should be self-closing and fasten with an automatic latch. To conform to BS 5709:2006, self-closing pedestrian gates and bridle gates which do not adjoin roads must be two-way.

Rising hinges

Special rides are available to lift gates as they are opened. These are useful on sloping ground.

Adjustable bottom gate fittings

These can be adjusted to make the gate hang and swing properly both when first erected, and if the gate subsequently ‘drops’ with use. Adjustable fittings are recommended for double gates, so that adjustment can be made to the centre alignment.

Variations

Purchasing the correct fitting for self-closing, rising or adjustable action is the best approach for ensuring a gate works properly with minimal maintenance, but sometimes variations have to be made using standard fittings. The following methods can be used to adjust the way the gate hangs, opens or the position at which it comes to rest, and can be used for gates on slopes, or for self-closing action. These methods are not generally recommended as they put extra strain on the gate, prevent it shutting ‘square’, and spoil the appearance of the gate.

• Hooks can be offset. This is done by altering the position of the holes which are drilled through the posts.
  
• The hooks can project by different amounts, by altering the amount the top hook is tightened, and the bottom hook is driven into the post.
• The positioning of the eyes of the gate rides can be adjusted to project by different amounts.
  

The following method can be used to make a one-way gate swing shut.

1. Offset the top hook 30mm in the direction in which the gate closes.
2. Project the bottom hook 5mm further than the top hook.
3. Project the bottom (adjustable) ride 30mm beyond the top ride.
   

Latches for wooden gates

A good latch should be:

• Self-latching when the gate swings closed.
• Designed to function for a long time, even if the gate drops with time and use.
• Stock proof.

The following latches are commonly used:

• Spring latch
  Advantages: Easy to operate from either side, and still works if gate drops.
  Disadvantages: Awkward to fit so that the tension is enough to keep the gate closed without being difficult to operate. Action of using lever puts strain on the hinges. Not usually self-latching.
• Automatic latch
  Advantages: Easy to fit and durable as long as the gate does not drop. Self-latching.
  Disadvantages: May be awkward to operate from far side. Only used on gates hung behind posts.
  
• Loop latch
  Advantages: Easy to fit and operate. Durable if made of rigid metal or chain. Works even if gate drops. Useful on double gates.
  Disadvantages: Can be worked by animals. Often improvised with wire or baler twine, which are not durable.
  

Fittings for metal gates

Metal gates are supplied with ready-fitted eyes for hanging, with one or both usually adjustable. Hooks on metal posts cannot be altered, so no special adjustments can be made for particular sites. On the other hand, erection is fairly straightforward, with less to go wrong.

Latches are also ready fitted, with either sliding latches or automatic latches the usual types.

Double gates

Double gates are needed for entrances over 3.6m (12′) for hardwood gates, 4.2m (14′) for softwood gates, and 4.8m (16′) for metal gates. Wooden gates, usually used for driveway entrances, have a drop bolt to locate the head to the gate in the closed position, and a loop latch to hold the two gates together. Equal size gates normally both have a drop latch, but where there is a pedestrian or bridle gate next to a vehicle gate, the smaller gate does not have a drop bolt, but simply latches to the larger gate.

Double metal gates usually have a large loop-over latch. This is heavy enough to be cattle-proof, and to hold the gates in position without the need for drop bolts.

Procedure for gate hanging

A well hung gate should open easily and stand open clear of the road or track, swing slowly shut without crashing against the shutting post, and latch easily.

The following is the basic procedure for hanging a wooden gate:

1. Fit the top and bottom ride to the gate, level with the top and bottom rails. If inverting the bottom hook to prevent the gate being lifted off, drill the holes in the bottom of the hanging stile, but do not attach the bottom ride.
2. Dig the hole for the hanging post, which should be not less than 1020mm (3′ 4″) deep. For good appearance, the top of the post should be about 50mm (2″) above the top of the hanging stile. See page 62 for information on tools and methods for digging a deep and neat-sided hole. The straining face of the post should be against an undisturbed face, as shown below. Check that the post is exactly perpendicular, and then backfill the hole, tamping each layer.
   
3. The lower hook is fitted first. Measure the distance from the base of the heel to the eye, and add 50mm (2″) for ground clearance. Using a drill or brace and bit, make a pilot hole in the post, slightly smaller and shorter that the size of the hook, and then drive in the hook with a lump hammer. Drive in to leave sufficient protruding, as described on page 113.
4. Measure, mark and drill the position of the upper hook. The main weight of the gate should be taken by the upper hook, so make sure that the distance between the hooks is not less than that between the rides. If it is less, the top ride will not sit down properly on the hook. Check that the drill is being held horizontally, and that it is going squarely through the post. Lift the gate into position.
5. Mark the position for the shutting post, dig the hole and set the post in position, checking that it is vertical.
6. Fit the latch.

If inverting the bottom hook, use the following procedure. This requires several people to hold the parts in position.

• Fit the top ride only to the gate.
• Fit the upper hook, lift the gate into place and hold it there.
• Another person marks the position of the bottom hook, held inverted.
• Lift the gate off, and fit the bottom hook as described above.
• Lift the gate back on, fit the bottom ride onto the bottom hook, and then bolt the bottom ride onto the bottom of the gate, using the pre-drilled holes.

The basic procedure for hanging a metal gate is as follows:

1. As the metal post already has the hook fitted, it is important to set the post at the exact height required. Measure the height of the lower eye on the gate, set at the mid-way point if adjustable, and add 50mm (2″) for ground clearance. Then measure off this same amount down from the lower hook of the gate post, to give the ground level position. Mark this temporarily on the post.
   
2. The post is set in concrete, and to make a foundation for the post, the hole must be about 100mm (4″) deeper than the base of the post. Dig the hole about 450mm square to give sufficient volume of concrete. A narrow ‘collar’ around the post will not be effective. Take special care that the hole does not narrow towards the bottom, as this is the most important part for holding the post firmly. Finish the bottom neatly and compact it thoroughly by tamping.
   
3. Use a mix of either:
   1 Portland cement : 2 sand : 4 aggregate (20mm)
   or
   1 Portland cement : 6 all-in aggregate
   All-in aggregate is also known as ballast, and contains both fine and coarse materials. The mix can be used either wet or dry, and either way the post must be left for several days before the gate is hung. The dry mix method is easier, and is suitable in all but very dry soils or conditions.
   As a guide, you will need approximately two barrows-full of mix per post, which will be about 4 shovels of cement to 24 shovels of aggregate. Mix thoroughly. Shovel some into the hole, tamping it lightly, until you reach the height of the post base. Set the post in place, and adjust the height as necessary with more mix. Fill the remainder of the hole. If using a wet mix, vibrate the concrete thoroughly with a piece of wood to force all the air from the mix. Prop the post in position using two pieces of timber.
4. Measure the position of the shutting post, and set in as described above. If the soil is suitable, the shutting post can be set simply in tamped soil, as it takes no strain.
5. Leave for three to four days, and then remove the props and hang the gate.