Stiles are designed to allow people to pass through or over walls, but to be inaccessible to livestock. In the past, their main purpose was to provide access in a way which did not damage the wall, and so maintained the livestock barrier. Ease of use for the person was not the main design criterion. With the increasing importance of access to all in the countryside, the emphasis is now much more on providing access through the wall in a way which is appropriate for all likely users, whilst still being proof against livestock if necessary.
Depending on the location of the wall and the type of use the area receives, gates may need to be provided instead of, or in addition to stiles. In more remote locations, which can only be reached by people who are fit and agile, the more traditional designs of stile may be appropriate. Stiles are in effect a barrier erected by the landowner across a public right of way, and must be of a standard which does not make an unreasonable interference to the rights of users, and must be maintained by the landowner in a safe condition. However, stone stiles are a traditional feature which should be preserved, rebuilt or created where suitable stone is available, even if a gate is needed alongside. There are few children who, when presented with the choice of a gate to walk through or a stile to climb over, will choose the former!
Stiles need to be robust and easy to climb or pass through, without the person needing to use the coping or other parts of the wall as a handhold or step. Wooden ladder and other stiles should not have steps or strengtheners running into the wall, as the resulting vibration will disrupt the stonework. ‘Built-in’ stone stiles are much more robust and durable than wooden or metal stiles, which are more appropriate for hedges and fences, and are fully described in Footpaths – Stiles and gates.
The pattern of stone stiles varies considerably from area to area, according to the available stone, local tradition and the whim of the builder. The examples below give an idea of the variety to be found, and of the careful yet ingenious use of stone which they illustrate. The examples are somewhat biased towards Yorkshire, probably because it not only has the advantage of geographical size, but of the ready availability of large pieces of sandstone. Similar types are found in many other areas.
There are three basic types of built-in stiles: step stiles, through stiles and step-through stiles.
Step stiles
The most common type uses long throughstones, built into the wall so they protrude at right angles and form a diagonal series of steps. Where very long stones are available they can protrude on both sides. Stones which are long enough to protrude on one side only should have at least twice the length of the step embedded in the wall. They can either be set in pairs as shown below, or set so they run up one side of the wall, and continue in the same direction down the other side.
Steps should protrude a minimum of 12″ (300mm) from the wall. The vertical spacing is more problematical. The British Standard for gaps, gates and stiles (BS5709:2006) recommends a minimum ‘step up’ of 12″ (300mm) for all stiles. Many stiles, both old and new, do not conform to this standard, and it may be difficult to do so when building within the limitations of the stone available. As discussed above, a pragmatic approach has to be taken, building to a standard which does not create a hindrance to walkers who are likely to be in that particular location. A fit and agile walker could easily climb a step stile with a vertical spacing of 1′ 6″ (450mm), and this seems a reasonable dimension to build to. A smaller vertical spacing not only requires extra stones, but does not necessarily make the stile more easily negotiable for the less agile. Where the location indicates a problem, a gate will be needed anyway in addition to the stile.
Step stiles are most often built in areas where suitably shaped stones over 3′ (900mm) long are available, but stone may be brought in from elsewhere. Ideally stones should be 3-4″ (75-100mm) thick, at least 12″ (300mm) wide, and regularly shaped with good, flat surfaces. Step stiles can also be built of railway sleepers or reinforced concrete posts, but are usually less satisfactory than slabs, and decay with time.
The top of the wall has been brought to small heads with a sill between to make the top step. This slightly lowers the height and avoids the chance of coping stones being knocked by people climbing over. Where three or more steps are fitted, the top step should be high enough to allow the coping to be carried across the top.
Hand holds can be a useful addition, but are not easy to fit securely. A short wooden post can be mortared into the top of the wall, but needs to be checked frequently to make sure it is secure, or it may itself present a hazard. Alternatively, a post can be knocked into the ground just to either side of the wall, to finish at a height to make a convenient handhold. If the lack of hand holds is making an ‘unreasonable interference’ at a particular location, it’s likely that a gateway may be needed anyway.
Note the following:
- If, as is often the case, you must leave some steps shorter than others, grade the steps from biggest at the bottom to smallest at the top.
- The stepping stones must be securely anchored in the wall, or they may prise it apart instead of strengthening it. The best stones protrude both sides, but only exceptionally long stones, of 5′-5’6″ (1.5-1.7m), are long enough to use in this way low in the wall. If the stone only protrudes one side, at least twice the protruding length must be embedded in the wall.
- Build up around the steps in the same way as for throughstones, carefully crossing each joint, and be sure to use large face stones at this point to spread the wall’s weight as evenly as possible. The stepping stones must be absolutely solid, whatever the weight put on them. Where available, a large anchor stone, about twice the length of the step, should be used over each step, or over the upper step of a pair (see diagram left).
- When using paired stones, take care that there is sufficient weight of stone above the top pair of stepping stones to hold them securely.
Where long, blocky stones are available, the staircase design can be used, with each step slightly overlapping and resting on its predecessor. This makes a very strong structure. The example shown is 6′ (1.8m) high with seven steps, the top four being throughs which protrude on both sides. A notable feature is the top stone, which is about 3′ (900mm) long, 8″ (200mm) deep, and completely spans the wall at a width of about 14″ (350mm).
Squeeze stiles
Squeeze stiles are found in a variety of designs and materials. They are generally more accessible for users than step stiles, and can make use of various shapes of long and large stones. The main design requirement is to make a gap which is wide enough for people, but too narrow or difficult for stock. An extra barrier may be needed at lambing time. Squeeze stiles may incorporate a low step or sill to protect the ground in the gap, or to make a step between different ground levels.
This stile, one of a pair either side of the road in Arkengarthdale in Yorkshire, tapers out from 8″ (200mm) at the base to 11″ (280mm) at its top. On the field side, both these dimensions are about 2″ (50mm) smaller, in order to discourage stock.
These stiles can be awkward to negotiate, as they are not only narrow, but deep. It is also fairly easy to dislodge stones. Squeeze stiles are better made of large stoops or slabs, which are narrower and smooth surfaced, so easier to squeeze past. They also protect the wall head.
Trimmed stones are quite often used in squeeze stiles, as they allow the structure to be made to accurate dimensions. They will normally need mortaring.
The following example, one of several in the Askrigg area of Swaledale, Yorkshire, has been very carefully constructed from small stones accurately trimmed to shape, and secured without mortar. In this case the shape of the gap and the skilled use of trimmed stones successfully combines wall head with squeeze stile.
Where long stone stoops are available, these can be set into the ground to make a simple but very robust stile, which also protects the wall heads. The stoops should be set in a minimum of 24″ (600mm), leaving a gap of no more than 10″ (250mm). Carefully select a suitable stone to wedge between them and form a sill.
This example at Ashford, Derbyshire, shows the fairly widespread technique of using a tapered piece of stone to make a splayed gap.
These two examples from Derbyshire show the use of shaped stone. The stile at Monyash uses shaped limestone stoops, now worn and polished with use. The sandstone slabs at Newhaven are elaborately shaped for the leg and foot, but unfortunately are too closely set at 5″ (130mm) minimum, so have to be stepped over by most users.
Step-through stiles
Step-through stiles combine steps with a squeezer or narrow gap. The steps discourage stock, while the narrow gap allows the walker to step through, rather than climb over, the upper part of the wall. If the wall heads are not strong enough to use as hand holds, separate wooden posts may be needed.
This simple design requires no special stones, apart from a flat throughstone to form the base of the stile.
This example from Malham, South Yorkshire, has three throughstone steps, and additional handholds.
This more elaborate version has a slab set in the gap. The slab and blocks are not tied into the wall and should be mortared to secure.
Other patterns
There are other patterns of stile which further illustrate the wide variety to be found.
In the Cotswolds, many stiles incorporate a large upright slab. This example at Swinbrook, Oxfordshire has a sill and step, with flat wall heads so the walker can sit and swing the legs over.
This example at Great Haseley, Oxfordshire, has an additional wooden cross beam to bring the barrier to a suitable height, but needs a step to make it easy to negotiate.
Sometimes a slab is simply set in the ground between wall heads to make one or two narrow ‘squeezers’.
Slabs can be incorporated into staircase type stiles, as in this well-worn example in a churchyard wall. This is not stockproof against sheep.
Stone faced earth banks normally have step stiles, with steps or ‘staircases’ built into retaining walls.
Three-way stiles
Occasionally the need arises for a three-way stile, where paths and walls meet at a T-junction.
This example has three heads built to form a three-way squeeze stile, with steps a further deterrent to stock.
An alternative method is to build the junction as normal, incorporating two or three projecting steps on each of the three sides. The top of the junction should be finished with a large slab to make a platform for access between the sets of steps.
