The coping is the line of stones along the top of the wall which protects the structure beneath. Regional names include the cap, comb, cope or topping. The stones are called topstones, copestones or toppers.

  1. The coping weighs down the courses below, and bonds both faces together so that the wall settles into a solid unit.
  2. The coping protects the face stones and fillings from the weather, animals and people. Without them, walls tend to flake away course by course, especially if they are made of small or fissile stones. Sheep will almost inevitably jump a wall where the topstones are missing, dislodging stones and speeding up collapse. The coping needs frequent inspection and repair, since once a few stones are dislodged a gap is likely to start.

There are many types of coping, and with most stones a choice is possible, based not only on practical requirements but on personal preferences as well. Where there is no good reason for doing otherwise, it is usually best to follow the example of the surrounding walls. Some of the variations are shown here.

Procedure

The following steps produce a neat result when placing topstones of a relatively even size. Much of this procedure will apply to most alternative types.

  1. Determine the height of the coping. This may be set by specifications and is usually 10-12″ (250-300mm). Note that it is the overall wall height which is important, not in most cases the height of individual topstones. Thus the wall should be rebuilt to a height which allows for the finished height including the topstones to match the finished height of the original wall. Where the topstones are very irregular, judge their height from their topmost parts, since this determines the profile of the top of the finished wall.
    Depending on the finish required and time available, long stones can be trimmed to length before they are set in position. Trimming also provides chips of stone which may be useful for wedging the topstones, or can be used as filling in the next section of wall.
    Where the wall top is irregular, use slightly larger topstones in the dips, and slightly smaller stones on the rises.
    Slightly different sizes of coping to maintain a level top
  2. Run a line from the top of the coping either side of the gap. For longer sections, or where you are coping part of a repair, place a stone of the determined height at the end of the section you wish to cope. Select a stone with a good base for this, and wedge it as necessary to hold it in place. Then run the line over this stone.
    A line helping to keep the wal top level
  3. If you are working on a section longer than about 10′ (3m), place another stone to the correct height about half way between the end stones, and wedge as necessary. This prevents the line from sagging, which would result in a dip in the profile of the coping. It can be a good idea to place a small stone on top of the centre top stone to keep the line steady as you work.
  4. Work from one end in a sequence, starting at the bottom of any slopes, however shallow. For more details about coping on slopes, see page 64.
  5. Place the stone on its thickest edge, centrally on the wall. Stones which are too short to straddle the wall should still be placed centrally, and distributed along a length, rather than being grouped together.
  6. Select the next stone so that it complements its neighbour, trying to maintain close contact across the wall.
  7. Ensure that the stone is vertical. The stone should sit solidly of its own accord, but occasionally this is not possible and a small wedge will be needed to secure it. Make sure the wedge does not protrude beyond the inside edge of the topstone, otherwise it will make placing the next stone awkward.
    Wedges to help keep copings solid and secure
  8. Repeat steps 5-7 until the length is completed.
  9. If you have plenty of wedges, it’s a good idea to then pin the front and back by placing a wedge between any irregular stones. Choose wedges that are only very slightly larger than the gap, perhaps 2-3mm, otherwise they are likely to force the topstones apart and create more gaps, or disintegrate on being hammered in.
  10. Wedge any gaps between the stones to ‘lock’ the top. Choose stones as above. For more details on coping see here.

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