With new walls, the degree of batter is sometimes specified in the walling contract, if there is one, and occasionally this may happen for major rebuilds. However in many cases, and for smaller works, there will be no specification.

To get an idea of the required batter, look at the wall you are repairing or at similar walls in the area. However, you need to allow for any movement that has occurred in existing walls, as they are likely to be very slightly wider than when originally built. If you follow them accurately, you will have to use more hearting and hence will run out of stone before you have reached the required height. Consequently, it is often a good idea to narrow the wall by 1-2″ (25-50mm). From the existing wall, narrow the new wall gradually over a distance of 3-6′ (1-2m), and then continue with the new dimensions. This approach ensures that the repair merges with the original wall rather than having a sudden step.

Procedure

Batter frames and line bars are described here. Experienced wallers may dispense with them, except when walling long sections or working to precise specifications, but beginners and groups of volunteers should use them to ensure accurate results. The only time there is no need for beginners to use frames or bars is when repairing small gaps.

The batter frames and guidelines should be set up after the footings have been replaced. Normally you would then start building at the wall head, setting up a frame or pair of line bars just beyond the end of the wall, with the other frame or pair of bars a convenient distance along the footings. Some wallers prefer to set the end frame about 3′ (1m) from the head.

Batter frames and lines in place

This distance may be determined by the amount to be completed that day, or by a particular feature in the wall such as a stile. The lines are then attached between the two frames or pairs of bars and the wall is completed to its full height. From this point on, you only need to use one frame. This is set up at the end of the next section, and the lines are run from it to the ‘working face’ of the wall.

Guide line and batter frame in place

Sometimes however it’s difficult to attach the lines into the wall accurately, and wallers who use line bars find it easier to lean the bars against the wall and attach the lines to them.

On shorter rebuilds it’s usually possible to run lines between the solid sections of wall, or to use line bars against the wall. On longer sections, over about 16′ (5m), it will be necessary to have a frame or bars mid way along the length. As the frame gets in the way of building the wall, you will need to leave a gap around the frame and build it up after the frame is removed. Bars are more convenient, as you can continue building the wall under the bars. For longer lengths divide the work into a number of sections in order to keep the line tight.

An alternative to using intermediate line bars is to build the wall up to the correct level at about the midpoint of a section. Then wrap a rag or bunch of grass around the lines to keep them from chafing and anchor them temporarily with a stone placed on top. This is helpful in group work, to limit the movement of the guidelines if they are accidentally knocked.

Midpoint of the section built up to level and line anchored

Batter frames

Batter frames can be made so that either their inside or outside measurement gives the profile of the wall. Below, and in the diagrams in Walling procedure, the batter frame is shown with inside measurement to fit the profile of the wall, so the frame is erected accordingly to straddle the foundation trench.

To set up the batter frame and guidelines:

  1. Set the frame squarely across the foundations so that its feet are at ground level and its centre line is over the centre line of the trench.
  2. Check the frame for plumb in both directions and prop it up with a board placed against the upper crosspiece. Anchor its feet and the end of the prop with stones.
  3. Tie the ends of both guidelines to metal pins or wooden splints or pegs.
  4. Fasten the lines to the legs of the frame about 1′ (300mm) above ground level. To do this, bring the lines inside the legs, wrap them around the legs twice and push the pins or splints down the back to secure. An alternative method is to wrap the line around the leg once and then secure the pins in the ground along the line of the wall. This method can add stability to the frame by helping to secure it, although care has to be taken not to move the frame when tightening the line.
    Alternative method that adds stability to the frame
  5. Fix the other end of the line to the other frame, or into the existing wall by pushing a pin, splint or trowel into a convenient crack at the correct level, and wrapping the lines around the ends. Make sure the lines are taut.

Line bars

  1. Using a lump hammer, knock a line bar about 6-12″ (150-300mm) into the ground at approximately the finished batter. If the bar is unstable, knock small wedges of stone into the ground alongside it. Repeat this on the opposite side of the wall, taking care to ensure that their bases are the correct distance apart.
  2. Check that the batter on both bars is correct by eyeing the angle to the existing wall or batter frame, and by checking that they are the correct distance apart at the finished height. Adjust the bars as necessary. Care has to be taken to ensure the batter is not lopsided. An adjustable angle spirit level can be used to check this. Hold the level at right angles to the wall, because if you move the level around the bar the bubble will give different readings.
  3. Knock the bars in another 6″ (150mm) or so.
  4. Attach a securing clamp to ensure the bars do not move during the building process.
  5. Carry out steps 3-5 above as for batter frames, wrapping the lines inside the legs and securing the lines into the ground.

Note that if the foundation stones are already in position, line bars can be used in the same way, knocked in immediately next to the foundation stones, and just touching them.

Chapters