Polypropylene fencing
Polypropylene mesh and other products are available for a range of fencing, windbreak and cladding purposes.
Tensar is the trade name for a range of materials manufactured by The Netlon Group Ltd. They are made of high density perforated sheet polyethylene or polypropylene, stretched to form a mesh. This makes a very durable material, with none of the frictional problems of woven materials.
Polypropylene Fencing
| | Deer fencing | Shelter shading | Cladding | Windbreak |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Roll sizes | 50 x 1.8m | 30 x 1m | 10 x 1m 30 x 1m 50 x 1m 100 x 1m | 30 x 2m |
| Protection factor | 58% | 63% | 55% | |
| Material | Polypropylene | High density polyethylene | High density polyethylene | High density polyethylene |
| Mesh aperture | 91 x 91mm | 82 x 27mm | 23 x 5mm | 30 x 6mm |
Leaflets giving detailed installation instructions for the products opposite are available from the manufacturer.
The deer fence is useful for temporary fencing of coppice coupes or newly planted glades, as it can be attached by wiring to locally-cut coppice poles or to standing trees, and then moved and re-used once growth is established. A 100m roll weighs only 22kg.
Centrewire supply a high tensile black plastic deer netting which has similar uses. The netting is 1.5m high, with a mesh size 5cm x 6.5cm, and is supplied in 100m rolls.
Netlon also produce a range of polyethylene nets and meshes for tree protection and garden use, and for horticultural shading, screening and protection.
Chestnut paling
Chestnut paling has been used for many years around gardens and playgrounds, and for temporary and anti-intruder fencing. Chestnut paling is useful for protecting small areas of newly planted trees from trampling and casual vandalism.
Chestnut paling is a traditional product of sweet chestnut coppices in south east England, and its use helps maintain the coppice economy.
Chestnut paling should be manufactured to BS 1722. The pales of half-round or roughly triangular sweet chestnut should have a girth of not less than 100mm. The pales are bound with two or three lines of wires, each line consisting of four strands of 2mm wire. The lines are fixed 150mm from top and bottom, with the third line mid-way on taller sizes. One line of wire is stapled to every pale.
The following sizes are widely available. All sizes are available with gaps between pales of either 50, 75 or 100mm. An example showing posts sizes and spacing for a 1500mm height fence is given here.
Table 4i Chestnut Paling
| Height (mm) | 2 line | 3 line | Roll length |
|---|---|---|---|
| 900 | • | 9.1m | |
| 1100 | • | • | 9.1m |
| 1200 | • | • | 9.1m |
| 1400 | • | 4.5m | |
| 1500 | • | 4.5m | |
| 1800 | • | 4.5m |
Chestnut paling is a relatively expensive fencing material, and should be handled with care.
For short lengths or for temporary fencing, the paling can be used on its own, and stapled directly to posts. For permanent or longer lengths of fencing, first erect an ordinary strained wire fence, with horizontal wires coinciding with the wires of the paling. Then attach the paling to the wires using netting rings (as used for chain link fencing). This not only gives rigidity to the fence, but avoids having to attach the paling using staples, which damage the wire.
Note the following:
- The wire on chestnut paling is easily damaged by hammering staples in too far, which can result in the wire breaking. If the paling has to be attached using staples, they should only be driven in so far as to just grip the wires.
- An alternative method is to use stirrup wires to attach the paling to the posts.
- Chestnut paling should not be over-strained, as the only method of attaching it at high tension is to hammer home the staples at each post, which damages the wire.
- Lengths of paling should be joined by neatly twisting the free ends of the wire around the first pales of the next length, in the same way as the wire is twisted between the pales. Do not twist the wire back on itself or bend it more than necessary, as this weakens it.
- Chestnut paling should be erected with the pointed end upwards, to deter climbing, and not with the pointed ends pushed into the ground. If attached on wires, the paling should be just clear of the ground.
Strain the paling in one of the two following ways:
- Strain by hand at each post. This can either be done by simply pulling it, or by using a spade, crowbar or piece of wood to lightly lever behind the post, as shown. If this is done too enthusiastically, the pale will break. As described above, attaching the paling at this tension will also damage the wire.
- Monkey strainers can be used by removing the last pale and inserting a crowbar, and attaching the strainers using wire strops. Only light tension should be put on the strainers, just sufficient to hold the paling taut. This method is useful if only one or two people are working on the fence, as it holds the paling in position and leaves hands free to attach the paling. Note that this method can only be used where the end post is strong enough to attach the strainers.
