The spacing of the intermediate stakes depends on:

  • the type of stock being excluded or enclosed
  • the stocking rate. High stocking rates will put increased pressure on fences as food comes in short supply, and stakes will need to be closely spaced.
  • the type of ground. On stretches of boggy ground the spacing will have to be adjusted so that stakes are placed at all high and low points. It is more important to get the stakes firm, and properly spaced according to the gradient, than to have them evenly spaced.
    Spacing intermediate stakes
  • the type of wire being used. Intermediate stakes on mild steel stock netting are usually spaced at 2-3m intervals, whereas those for high tensile wire can be spaced up to 10m apart. See Chapter 1 – Design and siting for designs of different types of fences.

Procedure

The following describes the procedure for flat land. For undulating land see below:

  1. If a top plain wire is being used, attach this and strain. If there are enough sets of strainers, leave this set in position. If not, fasten off with a Gripple, spiral connector or crimp. This wire then gives the exact line for the stakes, and makes it easy to see that they are at the right angle as they are melled in. Do not put in the top wire at this stage if barbed wire is to be used, as it is too dangerous. If barbed wire has to be used, it should be attached last of all. Where the fence is close up to a wall or to tall vegetation, and you can only use the mell or post driver from one side, it may be easier to line the stakes up by eye, as the top wire may get in the way.
  2. Space out the stakes to the required spacing (a measuring stick is useful), laying them with their points towards the wire. If the post sizes are variable, select the fatter ones for any soft ground, and the thin ones for any rocky or stony ground.
  3. An experienced fencer will be able to knock the stakes in without help, but for those less adept, two or three people will be needed. One person holds the stake, preferably with a post holder. Another person mells it in, and the third checks that the line is correct. The third person is not essential if upper and lower wires are in place.
  4. Start with the post half way along the strain, and then do the posts three-quarters and a quarter way along. This reduces the likelihood of getting out of line. If you start at one end and work along, the whole line can be creeping out of true without it being easy to see, because the end strainer is a long way off. Any small error on the first stake is compounded by the second, etc.
    Order of inserting intermediate stakes
  5. One person places the stake to be used in position against the wires. The other person checks that it is at right angles to the ground. If the stake is rather uneven, put the best face towards the wire to give a good surface for stapling. Press the stake down to make a mark on the ground.
  6. In stony soils or subsoils, lay the stake back down, and then using a crowbar, make a pilot hole by dropping the point in and moving the crowbar in a small circular motion. The other person should still be checking that the crowbar is at right angles to the ground. If you find the top wire gets in the way, lean on it just enough to get it out of the way. The pilot hole should be almost to the eventual depth of the stake, to knock any stones out of the way. However, the diameter should be as small as possible, in order for the stake to be firm. As explained here, a post driven in is much stronger than one in a pre-formed hole. In soft ground, a pilot hole should not be necessary.
  7. Remove the crowbar and return the stake to the hole, holding it as before. Where a post driver is being used, two people can use it together. Take special care that the stake is ‘true’ in the pilot hole, because once the post driver is in position, it’s not easy to check the alignment.
  8. Keep knocking the stake in until it’s the required height. If it won’t go in far enough, don’t keep on hammering as you will only be smashing the point of the stake against the rock or other obstruction it has met. If the post is firm enough, leave it at that. If not, take it out and try again a short distance to one side.
  9. Continue until all the stakes on that strained section are in place.

On undulating ground the procedure should be as follows:

  1. Instead of starting with the half, three-quarter and quarter way stakes, begin by knocking in those at all high and low points along the strain. Then staple the upper and lower wires to a running fit to these stakes, pulling the wires up or down as necessary. You may find that too much strain has been put on the wires, and that the Monkey strainers have to be released by a couple of links. If any of the ‘low point’ stakes are loosened or pulled up out of the ground by the upward force of the wires, the stakes will have to be tied down. This is best done at this stage. Use the measuring stick or tape measure to get the top and bottom wires at the correct heights for the type of fence.
  2. Knock in the remaining stakes. The wires should find their own level, and can be stapled against each post. This ‘smooths out’ the line. Beware however of further high and low points appearing as the wires are attached, especially in very uneven terrain. Keep a check on the bottom line to make sure it’s still stock proof. When using a bottom wire with stock netting it’s a good idea to leave stapling the bottom wire until after the netting is attached. The wire is then stapled half way between the bottom of the netting and the ground at each stake.
  3. Note that, in theory, intermediate stakes should be knocked in at right angles to the ground, even on slopes. However, this is rarely seen on fences in Britain, and to most people will look ‘wrong’. It is suggested that you check with the client before departing from the traditional method!

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